catbirdseat Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 Many of the usual easy alpine ice climbs are out of condition this year. Observation rock is a bowling alley I am told. Access to Maude is cut off. Buckner is usually done in three days by average parties. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skisports Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 NE Face of Eldo.... North Face of Shucksan... Mowich face... Forbidon NE or NW ridge I forget which one... Entitat on Maude. Cant think of any more off the top of my head Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 north ridge of baker. you could make it into a two day climb if you went slowly. some of the others on your list are more like 2 hour ice climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 15, 2003 Author Share Posted September 15, 2003 Already have done NR of Baker in one day. I thought Shuksan was a winter ice climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 i dont believe you will find much ice on shuksan in the winter unless you have the ability to tunnel downwards through 100 feet of freshiez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 15, 2003 Author Share Posted September 15, 2003 Indeed, what was I thinking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkAllen Posted September 15, 2003 Share Posted September 15, 2003 I recently spent a few days on the north side of Baker and saw two parties on the North Ridge. The normal approach from the helio/black buttes is most likely out. A more direct and passable route would be to cross below the lower Coleman Gl compression zone and cross the medial moraine/rock on to the Roosevelt Gl. near the falls, and ascend the main compression arterial that runs in the middle of the Gl. directly to the base of the North ridge proper. Approached this way last Sept. Gets spicy. Send it. There is a few new inches of snice with this last storm that polished the peak nicly, cleaning up all the brown blemish.Looks good again and good foam stick. Happy hunting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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