Suggestions for a two day alpine ice climb

[catbirdseat]

Many of the usual easy alpine ice climbs are out of condition this year. Observation rock is a bowling alley I am told. Access to Maude is cut off. Buckner is usually done in three days by average parties. Any suggestions?

[Skisports]

NE Face of Eldo.... North Face of Shucksan... Mowich face... Forbidon NE or NW ridge I forget which one... Entitat on Maude. Cant think of any more off the top of my head

 

 

Dave

[Dru]

north ridge of baker. you could make it into a two day climb if you went slowly. some of the others on your list are more like 2 hour ice climbs.

[catbirdseat]

Already have done NR of Baker in one day. I thought Shuksan was a winter ice climb.

[Dru]

i dont believe you will find much ice on shuksan in the winter unless you have the ability to tunnel downwards through 100 feet of freshiez

[catbirdseat]

Indeed, what was I thinking?

[MarkAllen]

I recently spent a few days on the north side of Baker and saw two parties on the North Ridge. The normal approach from the helio/black buttes is most likely out. A more direct and passable route would be to cross below the lower Coleman Gl compression zone and cross the medial moraine/rock on to the Roosevelt Gl. near the falls, and ascend the main compression arterial that runs in the middle of the Gl. directly to the base of the North ridge proper. Approached this way last Sept. Gets spicy. Send it. There is a few new inches of snice with this last storm that polished the peak nicly, cleaning up all the brown blemish.Looks good again and good foam stick.

 

Happy hunting