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diamond peak north ridge TR (4-20-03)


Patrick_Beebe

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little late in posting this, but I thought the route information might be useful to someone...

soloed diamond peak via it's north ridgeline. snowshoed in and camped at south base of peak 7138. starting at ~6am started out for the mountain. Gained the ridge early on (7500'). stuck to it as best as possible, climbing up and over the first gendarme (4th class) - alternatively, you could scoot around it to the east. ridge turns right (west), ascended slopes and short ice couloir to gain top, then wove my way through rime ice coated rocks to reach a saddle. continued on ridgeline, turning to the left (south) and staying above rock formations. Rest of it is just a slog to the top - but there is a small (~20') rock formation partially blocking the ridge; climbed it for fun (3rd class) but it could easily be passed on the right. watch out for the cornice to your left - i had it break from underneath me with the fracture line about 6feet from the edge. got back to camp at 2pm.

 

picture is looking north from summit, about 2/3 of the route is visible.

 

fun route - has anyone does this before? - i would recommend it as a good winter climb - in the summer it is probably all scree and boring.

220156-dpnorth.jpg.1b1e53697997aadb47164ca11edcce8a.jpg

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