tr mt baker via easton glacier

[the_mule]

climbed this route solo on 07/23-24. trip reports at the ranger station said the route was not climbable due to crevasses and weak snow bridges. ranger said it dependes on your comfort level. i liked his advice. left the schreibers meadow parking lot at 4pm and reached the the railroad grade trail at 6pm. trail leads onto the moraines and several campsites with numerous scenic toilets. camped on the last piece of rock before hitting the glacier. the glacier looked pretty broken up and intimidating, but i thought i saw a doable line with a possible boot track. spent a beautiful night with a small rodent that enjoyed running back and forth over my face. left camp at 5am and followed a faint snow melted track onto the glacier. snow was just firm enough to make my crampons useful. between 7-8000 ft had to step/hop over several crevasses, but they could all have been avoided with minimal traversing. around 8800 feet there is a 6 ft snow bridge that is about 2 feet wide and 9 feet deep. it was made more exciting by the fact that the wind really started to pick up here. some people have avoided it by making a very long traverse east (very long). the route was uneventful from 9000 ft on. the steam vents were interesting- a group of french research scientists were working there and had made some nice camp sites. the roman headwall had a couple of 30 degree sections but the trail was great. minimal rockfall noted. summit views were fantasitic, and thanks to whoever took the time to make the ice house up there. summited at 730am and was back to camp a couple hours later. snow was softening up by 9am. can definantly be done in a day, but i would have felt much less comfortable doing it solo in soft snow- especially crossing that snow bridge. overall an excellent climb with some incredible scenery.

[russ]

Glad you made it safely. Reading your tr made me think of this story in the Seattle Times a couple of days ago. Scroll down to "Duncan MacPherson...."

 

http://archives.seattletimes.nwsource.com/cgi-bin/texis.cgi/web/vortex/display?slug=digs22&date=20030722&query=Stubaier

[chilly]

Good job! A group of three of us climbed the 21st and 22nd. The route was great, with a light wind. Some great snowbridges up their, it was fun!! We saw the same researchers, they were down in the crater looking at one of the loud hissing vents. Mt. Baker rocks!!!! The scenery their is fantastic!!!