Mt Prophet TR

[Jonathan]

Maps: Ross Lake 15 min., Mt. Prophet, Pumpkin Mt., 7 1/2 min.

 

Last weekend I scrambled Genesis Peak and then Mt. Prophet with buddies Tom and Dave, paying homage to an area spectacularly ensconced between Ross Lake and the Picket Range. The trip is merely a rambly affair, nothing technical, although an axe was handy at points. The crampons enjoyed the trip immensely, riding high on the pack and off-duty the whole time.

 

So, aye, aye, maties, we boarded the boat Thursday evening to the Big Beaver Camp where we luxuriated in picnic tables, beer and huge bear safes. Next day we tromped for some 1/2 hour upstream on the Big Beaver and then hung a right, aiming for the 3000' saddle just N of Pumpkin Mountain. We attained the saddle in some 2 hours, following clever game trails. The abundance of Oregon Grape, Pipsissewa, Kinnickinnick (real names--you can't make stuff like that up!) and other arid flora testified to the sunny openness of N side of the Big Beaver, the banana belt of the Cascades, the sun-kissed rain shadow of the Pickets. Not much brush at all, although there were two very short, albeit spectacular exceptions to that rule.

 

We traipsed along the ridge top for some 4 1/2 more hours, gaining elevation and gradually exiting the deep forest. The sylvan realms bore ample evidence of ursine peristaltic activity, unless, perhaps, bears are Catholic and the Vatican lacks sanitary facilities. On the open ridge we encountered some 14 toads, doughty looking little fellows, and two bright-eyed, zippy snakes. From about 5,000 to 6,000' we donated much blood to the gruesome quantities of mosquitoes that descended upon us. We mused on more environmentally friendly alternatives to DEET such as the portable Bag o' Blood, trained swallows, and plump, shaved pug dogs worn as hats. We then went ahead and applied DEET. Pitched camp at the 6500' level and enjoyed the grand scenery and a lazy, bug-free afternoon.

 

Next day dawned a bit rainy, but it was a dry perpissitation and gradually cleared as the day wore on. We summited Genesis in about 3 hours from camp, and Prophet some 4 hours later. Navigation is absurdly straightforward: simply remain on top of the ridge. At the 6100' saddle NW of Genesis, however, drop a bit to remain S of some cliff bands whose E ramparts are not so obvious from the map or the terrain. There may indeed lurk handy gullies that would obviate the need to descend, a la the lucky little passage through the cliffs on the Eldorado Ck./Roush Ck. route to the Inspiration Glacier. However, we did not investigate, save for the unreccomendable bushy gully we chanced upon to drop to the necessary elevation. Bear W up the snow bowl to the top of a short 7,000' ridge from the peak just SE of Prophet. Crest the ridge, then bear N and then NW to the summit, bypassing an obstacle or two. At this point the heavens were clearing in earnest, with a few lingering clouds remaining for dramatic contrast. Views NW included Spickard, Redoubt and the Mox Peaks, the NE offered Hozomeen and further E, various Pasayten Peaks and then the massive Nahokomeen Glacier on Jack Mountain. We gazed S back along Doughty Toad Ridge to Ross Lake and delighted in a great peak-a-boo view of the Boston Glacier just W of Ruby, courtesy of the Thunder Arm. Finally we looked W for viewage up MacMillian and Access Creeks and high into the Pickets.

 

Prophet and Genesis are not frequented peaks. The plastic film canister register on Genesis still contained the first recorded ascent in 1975; we were something like the 6th party to visit since then and the first since the two visits of the 90s, 1994 and 1997. The register was quite wet and we were unable to dry it out adequately, so we just carefully returned it to its original canister. We added a nice aluminum film canister with a gasket to the register on Genesis and placed both canisters in a plastic bag. Judging from the entries on Prophet, I don't imagine that summit has seen many more callers.

 

We descended into the snow bowl on the S side of the narrow SW ridge off the summit. When the snow yielded to nasty talus at 6200', we optimistically sought access on several occasions to said ridge and were thwarted by steep, rubble-strewn slabbiness. Thus we stoically endured the tedium of loose and greebily talus for some 1,400'. At around 4800' we succeeded in gaining Hope Springs Eternal Ridge and its kindly stands of open timber and proceeded to Luna Camp on the Big Beaver. The descent from 7600' to 2200' lasted some 5 hours as the Tour de Talus and our forays onto the slabs proved time-consuming endeavors.

 

Walked the 10 miles out the next day to the stashed beer, the boat and a bacon cheese burger. We could not resist a brief detour to the pullout just E of the Ross Lake parking area to admire a view from the highway of much of our trip.

 

PS: GO LANCE!!!!!!!!

[kThurner]

I was the 1994 ascender. The traverse from Pumpkin Mtn to Pt 6872 on the northwest end of Mt Prophet Ridge is a very fine one with exceptional views. Pt 7035 looks like a bit of an obstacle when approaching from the south but the route is easier than it first appears.

[dkemp]

Fabulous. I was recently in the neighborhood staring at the route, making plans of my own. Glad it worked out for you.

Dox

[dkemp]

Prophet and Jack from Eiley/Wiley Traverse, two weeks ago

Dox