Coondog Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 Got invited to join some friends with a permit for 4 days in the Enchantments -- outstanding. First day hiked in via Colchuck & up Aasgard Pass. Second day got late-ish start, dropped down Aasgard to stashed gear, and began Backbone Ridge around 10:30. As noted in Telemarker's TR on Backbone, having a #5 Camalot should allow you to easily ascend the crux OW pitch... I unfortunately believed previous posts to CC.com that a #4 would suffice -- here's the reality: led the OW pitch, placing a piece about 10' up, then my #3.5 about 30' off deck, then began goosing #4 up with me roughly 15' above that piece... the #4 placed fine for about 15', then the OW expanded just enough that I was unable to place, unless you count having a cam wedged diagonally barely hanging between two reasonably chickenhead-ish quartzite cystals "solid." Continued this nonsense tipped out / diagonal on biggest cystals I could find horseshit til the #4 finally popped off from slight rope movement and rattled down the OW about 20', leaving me (more clearly) looking at ground-fall -- huh. Had the deep introspective moment of "okay Coondog, you're turfing if you slip and you're not going to be able to place anything for another 15'. Alright, don't freak and you got this. you cool? woof." Pushed on to the lovely little side crack above, placed two bomber pieces, then finished out. After hitching tree at top of pitch, yelled "Off." Then yelled "F*******K." ***Feel need to highlight for future generations that you do in fact require a #5 for the OW pitch -- don't fall for the "ohh, a #4 will do" b.s.*** After following that pitch Kush was pretty uncomfortable and deferred leading to me... we stayed roped for remainder of climb. Ended up climbing the upper third of BB to prominent major ledge on Fin after dark... actually found it pretty fun leading these moderate pitches by moonshadow... But decided for safety's sake to not attempt 5.9 undercling pitch on Fin in dark; bivied in windbreakers & windpants til around 5:30am , then resumed climb. Found rock outside the undercling in upper pitch on Fin to be very unstable for pro (touch anything and it popped out automatically... booh ). Back in camp around noon-ish after great slush glissade... Quite a day & a half. Moved camp down Enchantment basin that afternoon & rested, and moved camp down near Prusik Pass third day. Fourth day slept in til 9:00 since wind kept us up most of night... left camp around 10:30-ish, climbed Prusik W Ridge in 3 pitches, basked in awesome view. Back down to camp, lunched with mountain goats, then broke camp around 4:00-ish & decided to pound out to L'worth for cold bier since we'd depleted stores of booze. Duckboys around 10:00pm. Found to be cold & plentiful. Regailed folks on deck with story of our (mini-epic) Dragontail bivy... Aside from having a #4 instead of #5 for crux OW pitch of Backbone & having to deal with occasional chill breeze during bivy, an outstanding trip. Will post pics of mountain-goats licking our pee once they're developed... And believe I might be sticking to Pearly Gates for a while... --Coondog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Share Posted July 17, 2003 nice TR... soudns like a fun outing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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