Courtenay Posted June 30, 2003 Posted June 30, 2003 Using Savaiusini's beta from an earlier ski trip down the north side, 4 of us decided to have a go at the Adams Glacier route Sat-Sun. this past weekend. We too saw the stellar shadow shown in AlpineK's thread, and witnessed how amazingly quickly the weather can change in the mountains. When we got up at 2:30 it was starting to gust a bit, but we thought we'd at least hoof over to the start of the route and see what the weather held. It held enough to get up to the crux under the bergschrund, so we decided to go to the point of no return: up through the hourglass, 2 teams of 2 with 40m ropes, 4 pickets, screws (never used) and second tool (also never used.) Good steps kicked in from 2 teams of 2 higher on the route, so it's possible to solo. A few more weeks and the bergschrund will be nearly impassable, and I can see it getting pretty darn icy very soon. Once we got above the heavily crevassed areas and rockfall about 10'000 (GO EARLY, we got pelted around 7:30 as the sun hit the rocks high up!) we could take a break and enjoy the windless view. By the time we reached the summit about 11:15 it looked like gale force winds (a crazy squall system from the southeast) would take us off the mountain -- we spent all of about 5 minutes up there and hot-footed down the north ridge. Gross pile of rock, it would be much better if there were more snow. Highly recommend a carry-over to the south side (great glissading there) or ski descent, but if doing a carry-over, arrange transportation back to your car ahead of time. Two guys were asking for rides even before they tried their carryover; my guess was one of the two cars remaining in the lot when we got out later that evening was theirs! Good trip, amazing changes in weather (blue skies again when we got back to camp at 4) and lots of interesting features on the west side of the mountain. GO SOON, it will be changing very quickly! Take bug dope, they're awful. Tarps okay (melted out meadows with running water -- take a filter) but the bugs will probably get you. Quote
skykilo Posted June 30, 2003 Posted June 30, 2003 Hey, I think we saw you climb off the Adams Glacier right before we skied it. Did you finish just after the solo ranger? Quote
Courtenay Posted July 2, 2003 Author Posted July 2, 2003 yes we did. How was the ski? Get pelted with any rocks? (we did going through the hourglass. Startling to say the least.) Skiing down certainly beats downclimbing the north ridge!! Quote
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