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A new route named Sysiphus (because it took us so long to finish) has been completed on Goat Wall above Mazama. It is fully equipped with bolts for 10 pitches. Also has rap stations conveniently located so it can be climbed with a single 60 m rope. It lies on the buttress right of Burdo's Restless Native and left of his Promised Land. Rated at III 5.11a or 5.10c A0. You should be able to pick up a topo from the the bulletinboard outside the North Cascades Mountain Guides shop next to the Mazama Store. If not, the store has some copies as does Winthrop Mtn Sports. It is pretty well scrubbed but if you find a wire brush hanging from the first bolt please feel free to use it on the climb. The rock is superb and the climbing is of a very technical nature. Sort of like steep Tuolomne slabs. However, since it does cross a couple of the dreaded Goat Wall ledges, with their choss, helmets are advised. While it is bolted it is definitely not a "sport" route. We did place a bolt that you can yard on through the crux if you can't figure it out but you must be comfortable climbing 5.10 well above the bolts. No dangerous runouts but you're not clipping while you have bolt at your waist or even your feet. We will be putting the topo on the guide service web site www.ncmountainguides.com. I'll repost this info when we get it onto the site. Enjoy it.

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Posted
scott_johnston said:

Sort of like steep Tuolomne slabs.

 

i was just down there flailing and that is a bold assertation!!! t-meadows knob pinching rules!!

 

sounds like a adventuresome route!!! post the topo here!!!!

 

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