Mt. Hood - Newton Clark Headwall trip report

[cascadecowboy]

A very nice route, seldom done, thought I can not see why. It has a fairly easy approach, steep but not intimidating climbing, a technically interesting finish, and a remote feel. I climbed this on March 1 with two other pals from Portland.

 

Depart Timberline at 4:30 am, top of Palmer in 1.5 hours, summitted at 12:30 - 8 hours for the whole route. Deep snow slowed travel somewhat. Try this route after a week of consolidation for hopefully harder snow conditions. Major avy danger on this route - avoid if there is the slightest indication.

 

Crossing the White River glacier seems best about 200 feet above the Palmer cat track. Most snow years, there is a great gentle ramp at this elevation that leads right across the WR Glacier with minimal elevation loss. The slope leading from the WR Glacier up to the base of Steel Cliffs looks kinda steep from the Palmer, but it is actually quite moderate and may be easily climbed unroped. Angle up from the WR glacier to the base of Steel Cliffs at about 9800 feet.

 

From base of Steel Cliffs, traverse about 200 meters with no elevation gain to the toe of a long rock buttress at 9,900 feet. (If you turn up before reaching this rock buttress, you’ll be on the Wyeast route and then have to downclimb later). From the toe of the rock band, head upwards in a 2:00 o’clock direction over a 35-40 degree traverse to the right hand edge of some yellowish rock, then turn directly upwards through about 300 feet of 45-50 degree snow. If you hit it right, you be right on top of the Devils Kitchen headwall. From here, continue on the final bit of Wyeast. If you want to protect this last bit, a few small cams or tri-cams might be useful - there can be exposed solid cracks for rock pro, depending on the season. Top out, and descend South Side.

[iain]

looks like a slushfest up that face w/ the early morning sun.