[TR] Goode Mountain - Northeast Buttress 07/29/2021

[Guye]

Trip: Goode Mountain - Northeast Buttress

Trip Date: 07/29/2021

Trip Report:

We started from the PCT junction near Rainy Pass. This is not far from the wildfires currently burning on the eastern slopes of Silver Star and North Gardner, but luckily a westerly wind kept the area mostly smoke free. The hiking is easy and straightforward all the way to the ford of North Fork Bridge Creek. With the dry temps and the heat waves of June and July, the river crossing was trivial. At most the water was just above the ankles. We took a rock gully strait from the crossing to the waterfall, which saved us any bushwhacking. The waterfall slabs were also not bad. A bit exposed at times but easy climbing. We followed the climber's trail through 90% of the alder above the slabs, losing it just at the end. But the bushwhacking is not hard even without the trail. We made camp at 5600' at a bivy site just below the slabs.

To get onto the glacier we crossed over an icefall, which despite being broken to bits was fairly solid. Had a close encounter with rockfall off the cliffs above the glacier, a reminder to minimize time spent getting onto and crossing it.

The moat crossing was also easy. A collapsed snow bridge gave us good access at 6800'. From there we ascended a class 4 ledge climber's left for a hundred feet or so. Above that was only one pitch of low 5th class climbing to gain the ridge crest. Ridge crest itself was easy 3rd and 4th and we soloed/simuled through it staying just left of the crest. When the ridge steepens we stayed right in the gully, climbing the low 5th class to reach the bivy ledge. From there we climbed left to gain the final summit ridge, low or mid 5th class leading to 4th class. No snow on the route whatsoever.

We took the Southwest Couloir down, which redefined how I think of loose rock. Made camp at Park Creek, hiked out next day. Weather was fantastic, the westerly wind persisted and kept us with clear skies and clean air. All around a great trip.

Gear Notes:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Headlamp, Ski Poles, Bivouac

Approach Notes:
Road Hike, Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Bushwhack, Stream Ford, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Glacier Climb

[mountainsloth]

Nice. I hope to find similar conditions this year.