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catbirdseat

Rainier Gib Ledges Feb. 22-23

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The four of us all took turns breaking trail.

How is this done if you are all on one rope (assuming you were)? Do you untie and change posistions every now and then or do something else? When do the middle posistions break trail? (sorry for the thread drift but I am naive).

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Pretty simple really .. we untied from the rope (up until we got above the ledges). We weren't roped up above Gib Ledges so it was pretty easy to change leads.

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Hello capitalist!

Who need rope on upper Rainier this time year with all crevasse froze over?

Thank you for allow Asian to post on American website.

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AlpenTom said:

We weren't roped up above Gib Ledges so it was pretty easy to change leads.

 

hiya tom--i think you meant to say that we weren't roped up BELOW the ledges. we were roped from shortly below the chute until muir. have you eaten yet? smile.gif

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oh yes, it must also be noted that this was catbirdseat's SECOND winter ascent in two weeks. amazing! and we took his rappel off of the top of gib rock down onto the ingraham glacier; that was something new and pretty fun!

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Wow .. you're right I had that backwards. All that postholing made my brain numb. So to answer the guy's question a couple posts back, yes we untied and switched leads about every 400 feet. It was slow going but we got there. I was wondering what Harry was talking about.

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AlpenTom said:

yes we untied and switched leads about every 400 feet

I guessed that was the case, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. thanks.

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Dustin, what we did was technically unsafe, at least the way we did it. We figured the risk of a crevasse fall in winter on the upper mountain was pretty minimal. If you wanted to move a middle man to the end and do it the safe way, this is how it might be done.

1) middle man pulls rope through prussick while approaching lead man (both are protected by 3rd climber who may place a boot axe belay)

2) lead man ties in just behind middle man

3) former lead man unties from end of rope

4) new lead (former middle) man ties into end of rope

5) new middle man slides prussick knot as new lead man moves out to extend rope.

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