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Posted

Has anyone ever climbed the SSW Ridge on Whatcom Peak? I'm not talking about the snow route from Perfect Pass, rather the rock route from just west of the Imperfect Impass. I was up there last summer after a failed attempt on Challenger cry.gif Only made it to the small col where a possible route meets the ridge at ~6350. This isn't in Beckey's most recent guide. Just curious

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Posted

Yeah, I spelled Pickets wrong moon.gif I'll spell it however I want dammit...

 

Yeah, if I thought it would be a first ascent, I'd have a little more motivation to get back in there next summer. I have to admit though that from what I saw, it doesn't look like a super high quality route, kinda chossy. It looks doable though; not terribly steep.

 

The reasons we didn't make it were:

1) It was late Sept. and there wasn't massive daylight

2) We spent the first part of the day trying to get to Challenger, our orriginal objective (the imperfect impass is a bastard).

3) It was not a scramble like it looked, and we weren't really phyched or geared up for a rock climb (1 50m rope, miniscule rack, etc.).

 

In fact just to get down the chossy, dirty, freaky 4th class section we had come up we had to make a rappel off an unused (duh) and somewhat questionable anchor (only one sling) and reaching the easy 3rd class ledge near the bottom only left us with like a foot and a half of rope left, literally!

 

From where we were, we could see the vast majority of the ridge leading to the peak and it didn't look too hard for the most part, probably 3rd, 4th class and no vegetation from there on out. Maybe 2 or three 5th class pitches. Like I said, it looked doable. I'd just like to know if it's been done before so I don't have to kick myself so much for not making it.

Posted

fwiw, I think the rock in the northern pickets is junk, you probably made a good choice. if you go in again, go in via Whatcom Pass in earlier season when there is still snow at 5000. Casual sidehilling around Whatcom to Perfect Pass.

Posted

Has anyone done the other approaches to the northern Pickets (Whatcom Pass/around Whatcom Peak, Beaver Pass/Challenger Arm, Access Creek/Fury-Luna Col) after the snow has predominantly melted?

 

How do these approach routes compare to Hannegan/Easy Ridge? I'd really like to get in there again next summer to climb Fury, Luna, and Challenger or something, this time with more than 3 days to complete the trip cantfocus.gif

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