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South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Couloir

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Thinking about doing this route on 5/3, but concerned that with the early thaw it may be out-of-condition already . . . 


Has anyone got current beta on the snow conditions?





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Hey Steve. I climbed it last Wednesday, 4/24. The route is pretty thin already, with two sections of mandatory rock (choss) for about 10 feet each. By 5/3, expect significant rock and very soft snow by early afternoon. I wouldn't want to be below parties on these sections, especially if they're climbing with ropes. It took significant precision for me to keep talus in place. 

If you're up for a rock route, those are definitely "in" during the midday sun. Rock was pretty dry and warm already.

I'll post a trip report here in a few minutes with pictures.

Best of luck if you go.


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I climbed it yesterday (4/30).  Chockstone is easily walked around.  About halfway up the upper part of the gulley is a short rocky/icy step, then a fair amount of mixed snow/ice/rock.  But there was enough coverage all the rocks were staying in place.  There was a fresh covering of snow from the day before.

See video


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