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[TR] North Cascades --Eldorado Peak - East Ridge 07/11/2018

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Trip: North Cascades --Eldorado Peak - East Ridge

Trip Date: 07/11/2018

Trip Report:

Steven Gnam and I set a new speed record on Eldorado Peak's East ridge on Wednesday, June 11th. We started the climb around 12:30 in the afternoon, and finished around 4 o'clock. Although we had both previously been on the route, this trip initially was meant to be a scouting mission. Setting of at a moderately fast pace, we emerged onto the first boulder field 7 minutes ahead of Leor's first split (trip report found here:             

With great weather, good feelings, trail and glacier conditions, we decided to go for it!

Total time: 3h30m

Ascent time: 2h15m     

Descent time: 1h15m

Gear taken:

  • ice axe 
  • black diamond z poles
  • microspikes
  • 20m glacier rope
  • ultralight camp harness with carabiner 
  • ultimate direction skimo pack
  • light gloves
  • wind shell
  • hat
  • sunglasses
  • buff

Gear used:

  • black diamond z poles
  • microspikes (summit ridge only)
  • axe (summit ridge only)
  • hat 
  • sunglasses
  • windshell


Just want to say thanks to Steven Gnam for a great day, and Leor Pantilat for the inspiration! 



Gear Notes:
ice axe, microspikes, poles, running shoes

Approach Notes:
Route in good condition--a bit of snow in Eldorado basin
  • Snaffled 1
  • Rawk on! 1

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Thanks for the post, I am considering taking my son and his buddy but not sure what footwear they need.  Normally I would go in a sturdy hiking boot but you had success with tennis shoes?  I would not do the same but maybe a lightweight hiker would work?  Issue is my kid not having hiking boots at the moment, he keeps growing out of them.  We're aiming for Austeria as I did Eldo many years back.  Did you notice if the rock slab for camping at the base is melted out and dry?

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