speed

I took a WFA course for Solo in NH a while back. Here's what I was taught: Assess the patient. Do they have circulation? (e.g. check for distal pulse) Is there any nerve damage? (e.g. can they move their fingers?) If they lack circulation in the limb, it is an emergency and something needs to be done soon. What I was taught was that after 6-8 hours without circulation, the limb will die and usually have to be amputated. If you can get the person out and to a medical facility in short order (i.e. 1-2 hours), don’t relocate the joint in the field. Let a trained medical person do that if possible. This is where MOFA and urban first aid differ. In the outdoors, you generally cannot get the person to the hospital in time so you need to perform the relocation in the field. The choice is usually, “risk further damage by attempting to relocate” or “loose the limb”. Again, as someone previously stated, this is the patient’s choice. Most people will opt, in that situation, to risk the relocation. Give the person the information and choice and let them decide. Respect their wishes. I looked over a couple of books I have and found an interesting note. In “NOLS Wilderness First Aid” they say that primary thing to worry about is circulation. More specifically, ensure that they patient has circulation to the limb. This is because of the risk of permanent damage done over time if blood does not flow to the limb. Nerve damage is not as urgent. Damage to a nerve is usually immediate and may be irreparable (especially in the field). NOTE: I am not a medical professional. This was what I was taught, take it as such. speed

Thanks all, I'm going to check it out soon. Jason: Thanks for all your work on the guide. Any word as to when its going to come out? Do you want any photos? speed

I saw it listed in Jason Martin's guide from this site. speed

Has anyone been up to Pinnacle Peak or the Tatoosh Range recently? I was looking the in Ice Climbing in Washington State guidebook and it lists the North Face of Pinnacle as an excellent winter alpine ice climb. Has anyone been up there this time of year? Thanks for your help,speed

After several years of quality use I think its time to have my down bag cleaned. Its lost a bunch of its loft and has a "wonderful" aroma. I'm going to start loosing tent-buddies soon if I don't take care of it. I'm looking for suggestion on places to get the bag cleaned. I know REI sells a special soap for down bags is this worth using or am I better off sending it out somewhere? I love the bag and want to take good care of it, so I don't mind spending a bit to get it cleaned properly. speed

I'm from back East not far from 'Lyme' Connecticut where the disease got its name. Ticks and Lyme disease are pretty much part of things out there. You just have to deal with them. When I went out I would just lather up with some bug goop (usually DEET based) and hit the trail. When I got back I would do the shower-and-check-for-ticks thing. It only takes another two minutes. Its pretty amazing how well the repelant works. Very seldom would I find an attached tick. And if I did I would just take care of it properly (you can read any of the many articles or books on this). You need to remember that its very, Very, unlikely to contract Lyme disease within the first 24 hours of contact. Its also treatable if discovered early enough. The best way to find out is to keep the tick and bring it to the hospital for tests. From what I understand the really bad and permanent damage from the disease comes from it being untreated for an extended period of time. It was something that conserned me back East, but I didn't let it keep me from being outside. Just like anything else, a few good precautions go a long way. Here I don't even worry about it (but I still check for ticks in the shower). Just my two cents, speed

I've heard this too (cliping into separate biners on a single piece). In fact John Long's book recommends this for the first few pieces from the belay. His rational is to safegaurd against high impact forces generated when a leader falls with so little rope out. Makes sense to me. speed

This is my understanding: Double Ropes: Generally in the 8.6-9.0mm range. These are also called half ropes. Designated by a "1/2" on the end of the rope They are used together however, the leader generally alternates clipping each rope (i.e. you don't clip each rope into each piece of pro). The UIAA test for this is 1 strand at 55Kg (versus 1 strand at 80Kg for single ropes). I've used this setup in both rock and ice. Twin Ropes: Generally a bit smaller in diameter than doubles (low 8's). Designated with an infinity symbol on the end. They are used together as if they were one rope, both ropes are cliped into each piece of pro. The UIAA test is 2 strands at 80Kg (basically the same tests as a single rope, just with both strands). I have never used this setup, I prefer either a 10.5 single or doubles. Despite the fact the "most climbers never talk to manufacturer's" I would suggest checking out the websites for several of the rope companies. Most of these sites are chock full of information. Plus they have links to e-mail address to send any questions to. I have e-mailed Metolius several times and always received an informative response. Climb on! speed

I moved to the PNW just last year. My perception of the Mountaineers is similar to everyone else's. I am a member and have taken their Navigation Class and intended to take the Basic Climbing Class. I have been climbing rock for over 4 years and have done some ice climbing, all back East. I have taken similar courses through the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club), but unfortunately they don't honor that experience. On the other hand, the AMC courses didn't cover glacial travel (not too many glaciers in New England <grin> ). So I hope to learn a few things in the course, although it does concern me that there are so many accidents on the Mountaineers’ trips/climbing classes. I just looked through my copy of the 1998 Accidents in North American Mountaineering and found reports of two fatalities and several accidents. I have had to deal with plenty of the bureaucracy of the Mountaineers, however, that is my own choice because I have chosen to be a member (for now at least). My question to the group is this: Is the frustration with the Mountaineers (or the WAC) unique to this organization? Or is it just a consequence of a group that size? As an AMC member of several years I have not heard many complaints about the AMC. Maybe I just haven’t been aware of it. All of my experiences with that group have been wonderful. I have met a great group of climbers, hikers, backpackers, and others. Then again, this is my experience. Others may have different views. Are there any suggestions or solutions we could suggest to the Mountaineers or the WAC? There seems to be a lot of opinions, ideas, and the such on this thread. Maybe we could get a list together of problems, suggestions, and solutions and send them to the Mountaineers. After all we all share the same public lands. We have a right to voice our opinions. Any thoughts on this?