eric_murphy

Has anyone been up to Colchuck, and had a look at Triple Couloirs lately?? If it has been cold enough to freeze at night it ought to be in.

Anyone had a look at the approach across the Carbon for Lib Ridge recently?

Lyle or anyone. I am looking for beta on Botanie Falls near Lytton. We tried to find it Thursday afternoon after doing Oregon Jack in the AM. We saw some ice from the road, and headed straight up to it. This was located on a steep headwall about 800 vertical feet from the road, and 40 minutes. The ice was maybe 120' and W6, and thin. This did not fit the book discription, so we headed farther up one of two gullies to the right of the headwall. We found many short steps of ice 15-45' W2-5, but no 90 m of W4 as the book describes. I led as short dirty pillar of W5, for 25 feet which ended in a bush. We ran out of time, so we had to head down. Both of the gullies had drainage/ice. Did we not go high enough? Eric Murphy Whidbey Island

Ditto

I use the Grivel Free leashes, and would say they are the best of the sliding to release type of leash. It is easy to hook the leash over the hammer/adze and slide to release your hand. The sliding metal buckles are a big improvement over BDs system which uses nylon over nylon. When the nylon freezes or rimes, it does not slide very easy, if at all. Nothing pisses me off more than fighting this while I am getting pumped before ever even getting to the screw placement. The android leashes are even easier to remove, but you must have thin enough gloves on to easily grip the metal buckle to releash. I watched Will Gadd use this system, and he gets in and out very fast. He swears by those leashes. Of course he is also sponsered by BD. I tried them, and I found them quite easy to use, but worried about dropping a tool. This is probably only because I was not use to that system. I do think that $40 is a bit steep for one leash.

Got a good look at the Gib ledges route from Castle/Pinnacle last weekend. The ledges look thin for snow cover, and would definitely involve some climbing on rock after the drop off. The Nisqually/Gibralter chute might be easier, albeit more dangerous. The mountain still has the fall look, with lots of blue ice showing. I cant ever remember seeing it like this in January. Eric Whidbey Island

Got a good look at the Gib ledges route from Castle/Pinnacle last weekend. The ledges look thin for snow cover, and would definitely involve some climbing on rock after the drop off. The Nisqually/Gibralter chute might be easier, albeit more dangerous. The mountain still has the fall look, with lots of blue ice showing. I cant ever remember seeing it like this in January. Eric Whidbey Island

Drury Falls is in. The lower falls are fat and plastic. We soloed the first pitch, and led the second (WI 3), which took us to the basin beneath the upper falls. We drooled at the ice before us, pondering the hard climbing. Due to the time of day, we opted to bail out, rather than rappel, and descend in the dark. The upper falls looks to have some technical WI 5 climbing on the top two pitches. This climb would be best done from a high bivy near the falls. The approach is deceptively long, with almost 3000' gain, and postholing snow condtions. Not to mention the avalanche danger in the approach drainage. Do Not attempt this climb in questionable snow conditions. Crossing the Wenatchee river in a $20 inflatable raft was quite amusing. Bring a good paddle!......Eric