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Posts posted by bcollins

  1. Maybe Sat.??? Looking for partner to do c1-2 route on upper town wall. I've had 2 trips to the Valley under my belt, just got to get on the rock. No hassles, just lot's of fun. I have about 1/3 of the rack, ropes, etc. Ready to go. Get back to me.



  2. fleblebleb said:


    The tone ought to be more like, here's my mistake (heading up in a storm) and here are the results (nailing a clean route) so don't do what I did.



    Interesting and informative posts my friends. Flebs comment about says our feelings about all this. When cleaning the pitch on Tuesday in a comparatively mild but heavy rain, we realized the mistake of using pins where Rob did. Whatever call we made at the beginning of the climb was mute by that point.........Rob was worked, cold, and needed good gear quick and his call was to have pins tagged up. I don't agree with the "I'd use pins but would not mention it on this website" crap. Best to be real and honest about what we do so we can learn from the mistakes of ourselves and others. Lambones beta on Narrow Arrow was right on, now we all know of a relatively dry route to work in crappy weather. That's what this site is all about. So the moral is...........


    Pick your route and weather carefully to avoid placing pins on a hammerless route.


    Rob and........

  3. To Lamb and the other unknowing purists...........


    I'm interested in how many of you have actually LED a pitch in full winter conditions? There is an immense difference between climbing in the rain vs. what we experienced on 3/9/03. It was 30 degrees, with frozen rain and snow. Icewater was pouring down not just the route, but the whole wall from approx. 30 inches of wet, new snow deposited hours earlier. Placing a pin doesn't sound too bad now does it.



  4. Got up on the Upper Town Wall this last Sat. during the blizzard of 03! Drove up Friday night, crashed in the SUV and hauled the bags to the base of Green Draggon. My partner Rob was able to put up one long, stout pitch (A2) in snowstorm. Coldest 4 hr. belay of my life! Usually the top of the pitch ends in about 30-40 ft. of easy free climbing but Rob ended up digging through snow to frig in pins, offset Aliens and small nuts. Lowering off in the near dark, we hung the ledge off the static rope and crawled in, enduring a long, wet night. Snow turned to rain and in the morning we had lost all ambition to even clean the pitch, let alone push our route further.......drenched, tired, and having gotten our ass thoroughly kicked, we ditched our gear and drove home with plans to clean the pitch on Tuesday (today) Of course today was just as bad (although warmer). Jugging up in a downpour, I wondered why the hell we put ourselves through this misery! Shouldn't I have been snowboarding? Anyway the ledges had melted out, and an hour later we were pulling the ropes and packing out. The upper wall is a torrent, with spray and meltwater flooding out all but the largest roofs. Aid climbing in the rain is not too bad, I hardly noticed it because I was so absorbed in the dynamics of climbing. The belays are harsh though........

    All in all quite the adventure. Still we'll give it another couple of months for the weather to improve.



  5. Now this is a trip report. Direct, consice, and no bullshit. I hope you post more reports, cuz this is what's needed on this site. Tell us the gear, the time, and leave the rest to those who have the balls to get up and climb! Your partner rocks for following up such a sufferfest without spikes!! Damnit this is what climbing is all about!

    Index epic to fo

  6. Kinda humourous to read the postings on Friday about the huddling masses that would be on the route, and then to cruise it with maybe a 20 min. delay at the base. Thanks John for being the perfect "instant partner". I'm 3 for 3 for meeting partners on this website on short notice. I've knocked off Stuart West and North ridge's and now Chair with partners I met here on maybe 2 days notice!!!

    Love it, only in America.

    Also John check e-mail for info about biner

  7. Ok, reading all these posts about Chair and Guye has me salivating.........one stout partner needed to do No. Face Chair, NE Buttress or Guye. Any takers? Lot's of experience here........McClellan Butte has a nice No. face line on it too. Let's jump on it before the weather moves in, or even while it does. Avy conditions are optimal. Post here or message me. We can meet up in No. Bend. Saturday is the day to summit!!



  8. Wondering what others think about this present season. I think there will be awesome opportunities for alpine routes if this dry season cont. to develop as predicted. Stuart, D-tail, etc. may be possible with primo mixed conditions..........imagine the ice that'll form in Triple Couliours and other No. facing routes. There will be snow soon, but approaches may be firm and doable. Any other route suggestions or thoughts?

  9. Not quite sure what to say about all this. I'm glad that there aren't fixed ropes and crap to negotiate around to Pinapple Pass. That part isn't hard at all, and if your pissing about that then what are you doing climbing in the NW? And you could have placed more gear on the first pitch.........one piece isn't enough but that's your fault, not the fact that theres no fixed gear. And the tree at the top is bomber, I've rapped that a dozen times and so has a million other climbers, so throw another sling on it and move, I can't believe anyone would downclimb that pitch, let alone do it solo rather than rap, are you crazy? And if you even thought of placing a bolt on the tooth then you really need your European head examined, cuz that just ain't done around these parts my friend. These here are real mtns for real men so suck it up buddy and quit whining. Geez, bolting the So. face of the Tooth...........come on!


  10. Need partner to climb No. ridge this Sunday. Plan was to leave Sat. night for a car-car blast via Goat Pass. I've done most of the No. ridge and I'm familiar with the Cascadian descent. Come on someone, my gear is in the car and the weather is good so LET'S GO!!! I would consider something else but I'm jacked for Stuart. Post here, e-mail me at bcollins99@juno.com or call.




  11. Amazing! Thanks for the reflective info without any spray. Bailing after that long of an approach would really piss me off, and I understand how icy conditions can be on a mostly north facing glacier in the early am. I think I'll see if a pair of G-12's will hold up on my approach shoes, and take a light axe. BTW, what's the best piece to protect the gendarme off-width?



  12. For complete No. Ridge this time of year, I'd go in via Mtneer Creek and descend the Cascadian. (obvious logistical car hassles but I think it's worth the drive) As Russ said, break left and cross the creek. Traverse around on benches towards Mtneer Creek but avoid staying high on the large boulder field as you head towards the No. ridge. If you traverse to the creek you'll find a trail on it's west side that will head upvalley. The boulder field will SLOW YOU DOWN. You will not need an ice axe or crampons and can do the appoach to the No. Ridge in approach shoes. BTW......looking at doing the upper No. ridge via Goat next weekend. Anyone been on the Stuart recently??? Is it possible to traverse it now without an ice axe or crampons while wearing appoach shoes??? I'd almost rather take 2 long ice screws and belay across than take an axe, boots, and crampons. This is a one day trip from the Teanaway. Any suggestions?