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Posts posted by bcollins

  1. I went up to the Tooth to the 18th, so a bit of the approach was the same. The packed ski track wasn't too bad, but off that the snow was really dry deep powder. It took us 4 hours to get to Pineapple Pass. I was on AT skiboards and my partner was on big snowshoes. It was a pain in the ass either way, but the ski down would be fun, if only I could ski better on short skis with a pack in powder. Check the avy conditions before you go.


    This is why people die from avalanches........"check the conditions before you go". That just doesn't work in our climate. Snow stability must be assessed on site, just logging on to Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center and then figuring your safe to travel through the Source Lake basin is asking for trouble.

  2. Ah yes Del Campo................

    Memories of my brother being air-vac'd out by a Chinook, the rotors ripping huge chunks of ice from the lake surface. We were in our mid-teens, didn't know how to use an ice-axe, let alone hold on to it in a fall. He sustained a deep gash to his left thigh (to the bone). The boys from Whidbey Island winched him and my dog out, then made me hike out with the SAR crews!!! Haven't been back since................. rolleyes.gif

  3. Hey Weas! Was that you in your biv-sac snuggled in below the East summit? I remember saying something about you not sleeping as I literally stepped over your feet, it was rather windy. We got just below the snowfield before it was lights out. I thought our time was rather slow, we spent maybe 2-3 hrs on the Gendarme. We needed more gear and ended up aiding most of it. Up until then we simu-climbed most of the ridge. Aug. 9th was the best day of climbing I've had in 15 yrs of climbing in the NW. Next yr I plan on solo'ing most of it with one other partner, goal 18 hrs.


  4. After having climbed the Tooth maybe 10 x's in all conditions, a buddy and I solo'd it a couple of weeks ago. (first solo) It was one of the funnest times I've had in the mtn's in a long while. We took a double 9/16 sling for a harness, a 37 m. ice floss and a locking biner each for the rap's. Running up/down the trail, doing the whole route in about 15 min., back to the car in 4 hrs. Wouldn't want to make a habit of soloing but I can see why people would. Ingall's next?

  5. Descended CC yesterday. No axe needed.


    Hey got a question for the Cascadian Coulior regulars........

    About a third of the way down the coulior, just as the trail begins to hit the scrubby trees, it sorta cliffs out. I've been dogging left and dropping down into a loose, short narrow gully which dumps out low and puts you right onto a trail (obscure, overgrown) which takes you to the Ingall's creek trail. Is this the best way down? BTW, how many of you have gotten spanked on the Gendarme? cry.gif

  6. Jarred_Jackman said:

    How cold would you bivy folks say it's getting up there? I'm looking at doing the Stuart Traverse and am trying to collect some info about the current conditions. I know there's snow on the top of cascadian, did you see any snow on the Sherpa ridgeline or anywhere else as the ridge heads towards the area of Dragontail?


    I'd say it's............hell.........30 degrees at the bivi site.

  7. About 8-9 hrs Paradise to Hazard. Can also climb to just below the Turtle. There's semi-dependable water there. Then you can summit from here without hauling overnight gear up the Turtle. Or do it in 2 1/2 days with a night lower on the Wapoweti, then to Hazard.........makes for a much more enjoyable trip.

  8. Lambone said:

    Hey b,


    We took a 37meter 7.8mil up the North Ridge, and climbed with it doubled the whole way.


    On the Gendarme, it BARLEY reached the 1st belay at the top of the pillar, and I had to belay a bit short of the best stance on the second pitch.


    It worked well because I was able to pull one strand through to haul the packs with, but we BARLEY got away with it. A 30 meter doubled would definately not reach.


    I'm not sure how youd make it work with three people and a 50 meter...


    Not sure either but it sounds like it'll work. Apparently have to pitch the rope down for the 3rd. Thanks, Barry

  9. Hey Fleb,

    3 of us going up next weekend. When you mentioned taking a single 30 m. half-rope, we're you thinking of going super-short on the Gendarme pitches with the rope doubled, or climbing it on the single 8-9 mil., thinking that the directness of the pitches would minimalize the chance of edging the rope in a fall. I guess my question is............

    Would you take a 50 meter 9 mil. up the Gendarme with a party of 3? Can you make it happen?

    What's everybody else think?

  10. wscottf said:

    I am happy to pay the fee since they have running water at Paradise, plow the roads, have solar toilets, and a hut. I am however disappointed to see the policy change.


    Mt. Adams on the other hand: thumbs_down.gif

    No toilets, no hut, and most of all, the road is in bad shape until July. I'm very grumpy about having to pay to climb Adams. For the money I have to spend to climb Adams, I'd like to see added value.

    Ya, me too. I'm so happy to pay for services and improvements that thousands of others use but do not have to pay added fees for other than the park entrance fee. So ti cost $30 bucks to use the solar shitter once, and the shelter was built and payed for early the last century. As for Adams, do like me and many others, climb and don't pay the fee and quit whining. Sorry to vent on you, climbers get singled out and I'm tired of it.


  11. Here's the toasty winter bag you've always wanted. 800 fill,

    -15 degree Widgeon series bag. This bag is red, probably long, (I'm 6'0, fit's me great) with a Dryloft shell. I've used it on winter Rainier trips, (no bivy sack needed), it'll bead off H2O like nothing you've seen. Highly compressable, and bomber construction and detail like FF always delivers. There's a 1- 1/2" x 2" patch (professionally done) that's hard to spot unless you know where it's at. Otherwise many years of use left in this bag. Retails new $500.00, selling it for $250.00. See it at Backpacker's Supply, 5206 So. Tacoma Way, Tacoma.

    Or pm me of course.


  12. Hey whoaaa, back the truck up!!! Can we get alittle more clarification on the "exit crack"? I believe that turning the corner and running up that bowling alley back up to Hazard is the worst part of that route, especially on a warm day. How long is it? Thanks Ned.