512dude
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Posts posted by 512dude
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The route left of Rat Face is in Burdo's EXIT 38 guide (1996, Rhinotopia Productions) but when I looked for it back when there were no bolts on it. Spoke to Bryan about it and he recalled not bolting it 'yet'. Looks like someone else got to it recently.
Bryan called the route Black Market and offered a couple ratings 5.9 and 5.12a/b. Sort of indicates to me he hadn't finished it and maybe didn't update his draft before releasing his guide.
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There is another new route just left of Rat Face on the Deception Wall. 10 clips about 11- is the claim.
Anyone know what the route 2 left of Ellie Sweet Kiss on Middle Eastern Block is? 5 bolts
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I'd save the gas money, things looked wet and cool - I'm sure there will be better weekends soon.
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Had a sweet trip into the beautiful Sisters mountains back in May. Climbed the SE Ridge as avalanche activity was on the go. Conditions were superb otherwise. Enjoy the photos!
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Three of us did it last week and the route seemed safe for us. I thought the 4th pitch up the 10c corner and which ended at the first set of 'fixed' bolts and chains was a bit mossy and vegetated for a classic. The start of the fifth was also green as shown below.
We ended up bailing on the Hyperspace exit as some of the cracks were wet and were dealing with a thumb sprain.
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Special Avalanche Statement
Significant avalanche danger at higher elevations on the volcanoes, mainly above 7 to 8000 ft
Several strong storm systems moving through the region last week produced increased accumulations of new snowfall at higher elevations on the NW volcanoes from Mt Hood northward through Mt Baker and in the Olympics. With water equivalents during this period ranging from an inch to over 3 inches this weather likely produced new snow amounts of 1 to over 3 feet above about the 7 to 8000 ft level, greater at higher elevations and on southeast through northeast exposures where intermittently strong winds produced deeper drifting. These new snow amounts taper quickly below 6 to 7000 ft with only minor amounts of a trace to an inch or so of snow recorded at the 5000 ft level.
This weather has resulted in significant unstable snow accumulations at higher elevations on the volcanoes, especially on lee slopes where unstable slabs of 3 to 5 ft or more may have developed over either previous crusts or some wet weak snow layers, depending on elevation and aspect. Most recent information from Mt Rainier indicates that Camp Muir has received about 2 feet of snow, with 3 to 5 ft drifts...especially on east exposures. Although only preliminary information on the recent avalanche accident on Mt Rainier has yet been received, it appears that the avalanche was a human triggered 3 to 6 ft deep hard slab, approximately 1 to 200 yards wide, and running about 1,200 vertical feet. Latest information indicates that the slide caught 11, buring or partially burying 4, one of whom remains unacccounted for at this time and is missing and presumed dead. Other climbing parties in the area were able to recover three of those who were buried or partially buried, two of whom suffered injuries necessitating airlift rescue from the site with the third able to walk out amid minor injuries. This serious incident underscores the fact that the weather not the calendar dictates avalanche danger on higher elevations in any mountainous terrain.
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Looking for some partners to play. I have almost 24/7 to go and a long hit list.
Priorities are safety, skills and competency a must, gear and grades not such a big deal.
Rainier - Liberty Ridge
Shuksan - N Face
Adams - Adams Glacier
Hood - Sandy HW
Shasta - Casaval Ridge
Torment to Forbidden traverse
Banks Lake - rock climbing
Bugaboos
Idaho Saw Tooths
Castle Rock - Can.Rockies
Yak Peak
Hailing Peak - Sisyphus (21 pitches)
Speed climb - infinite blisters (23 pitches)
Disappearing Floor
S Early Winters - The Passenger
Colchuck Balanced Rock
etc.
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Liberty Ridge?
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Trip: Oregon Cascades - West Ridge
Date: 5/11/2010
Trip Report:
Mount Thielsen in winter conditions.
Gear Notes:
MSR Lightening shoes, ice axe, ski poles.
Approach Notes:
Used snowshoes - nice trail to the ridge and then follow your nose.
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Can they do that now???
Kayfire -Get a rib removed and blow yerself.
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Rad
have you done the second pitch to the routes shown in the pic? It seemed a bit grim and there looked like some rock had popped off. Curious to know if it gets much traffic and if there are top anchors - couldn't see them.
Thx
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Where is this route? You could just go buy one, a nut and a washer and put it in. Check the bolt of course and make sure that it isn't bad and purposely removed. Use some Loctite if you want it to stay put.
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Climbing over at the Gun Show and jumped on a couple of newer lines not in the guide. This is what we thought they were and the 10+ was short but sweet. Note that GS3 is in the guide.
Is there any place where the newer local 38 routes are being recorded? Maybe someone can start a Wiki page for Exit 38 and related routes.
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What about the Pole Creek Spring trail head? The routes heading in there seem to offer some selection.
I can't believe that folks haven't been in there this year.
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Anyone have beta to share regarding going into the North and Middle Sister this time of year?
Is the pass open or would one come from the east side?
Trip reports?
Thanks
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NOTE THIS VAN IS NOT MINE AND IS POSTED FOR A FRIEND, EMAIL MARK AT: ultradog@jps.net
This is a maroon full camper Westy in very good condition with low miles on rebuilt engine and transmission as well as relatively low miles on the vehicle overall. We have owned this classic over five years, but it's time to pass it on as we are looking to buy a travel trailer. Very well maintained and kept in great running condition. Body and original paint are in very good shape with only minor dings and scratches and no rust. Working appliances. Original canvas top is in good enough shape. All curtains including rear hatch screen. Both tables. Air conditioning. Upholstery in great shape. Bentley manual. AM/FM/CD with 4 speakers. 185/R14 load range 'D' tires in good shape. More pictures and maintenance history on request.
26K miles on rebuilt engine (stock 2.1L fuel-injected)
15K miles on rebuilt transmission
132.7K original miles
Most major engine and cooling system components replaced in the last few years, including new air flow meter wiring harness to fix "Vanagon syndrome." All work and regular maintenance documented and mostly done by a shop specializing in Vanagons.
Very few minuses: passenger side power mirror not working (works fine manually) and a missing plastic cover on the parking brake handle. The coolant level sensor is blinking intermittently even though the level is fine, and should cost about $30 to fix. Air conditioning was adequate last time I used it but a recharge would help (I rarely used it). This is still a 20 year old van and not without minor wear and tear.
This van passed King County emissions inspection in December, so it is good on emissions until 12/2011 and the license is good through 12/2010.
Asking $14,900
More here: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1613565105.html
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Cleaning out my gear loft:
$70 - 0.5 and 0.75 size Black Diamond Camalot
$50 - never used brand new Prolite Regular Size ThermaRest 66"long 16oz
$20 - MSR Skinney One Tent Footprint
$35 - never used brand new MSR Duralite Cookkit non-stick 1.5&2.0L pots
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>>you could also have a go at Umptanum falls in Ellensburg
Now that would be a major waste of effort unless you want to lap something that is ~15' of ice
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Is that just 30 feet of ice or were there more pitches further on?
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I see some routes up in the hills that need 1st ascents - well at least this year. What about that ribbon coming down over near MP40? I think the morning will hold cooler temps but come later in the day it may go south on us as North Bend calls for 38F and 30% POP. Anyone up to try and get a few more in?
I'd prefer to go with folks who can lead and want some adventure even if its for a few hours.
ice@climbcanada.net
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Vantage & Quincy Lakes Area
Me and my girl went out to Vantage to see what was in and Fugs is definitely NOT in good shape however Frenchmans Falls looked ok but with a big gash in the center and lots of running water.
So we cruised to the Ancient Lakes and found this climb in reasonable shape and in an aesthetic setting.
[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110073CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]
[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110079TchUp.jpg[/img]
[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110088CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]
[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110097CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]
[img:left]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Ancient%20Lakes%20Ice%202009/PC110095CasacdeClimbers.jpg[/img]
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Out to X38 at 7am and we looked th the route MercyFate recommended in an earlier post - thin at the start but the latter half looks tasty.
We walked 50 yards west along the trestle and saw a nice wall of ice at the top of a 100' gulley. This wall was also thin to start but fat up top. Don't know what the route is referred to as but it was 100' of nice climbing.
[img:center]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Exit%2038%20Ice%202009/PC100071blog.jpg[/img]
[img:center]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p128/512dude/Exit%2038%20Ice%202009/PC100061blog.jpg[/img]
Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Was out at Eastern Block and climbed the Hurricane route. Its over a little too quickly but given the nature of the area it feels like .10d to me.
The steep thing up the left wall in the Block of Doom alley ~.11c
Thx Frank, are you putting up more in the area?