route choices in Climber's Board Posted January 26, 2001 It’s a scientific process determined by the following factors: 1) Each year I start with a broad list of routes that I’m interested in. For example: I try to climb one of the top 25 (non volcanic) peaks each year, one peak that I can see from my front room window, one rockaneering route, one alpine ice route, one ridge route. 2) Then when I finally get that precious weekend of free time, I pick a route from the list that the conditions are most favorable for based on seasonal conditions, weather that weekend, the amount of daylight, and beta gleened from friends. 3) I make sure the Mountaineer’s haven’t scheduled a climb there and if it is a route in Nelson and Potterfield I usually wait for a weekday (especially if the approach is easy or if it one of the mega classics). 4) This last part is the trickiest. After I decide what I want to do, I call up one of my partner’s and present the idea to him. He tells me what he wants to do instead. We argue about it over email for 2 days and I usually wear down and do whatever he wants. Its even more fun when there are 3 of us. Luckily there are hundreds of routes I haven’t done yet, so picking is them is easy. Finding the time off to climb them, when it isn’t raining that’s a lot harder.