TYSON

GNS-Index Even steven-Index Dont know the name, route is about 400' left of the big tree route at 3 o clock( way cool knobs) Chickenshit gully to top of dick ridge(running belay)-squire creek wall Ridge run from conglomerate to spire pt-Skykomish area. Last 400 ft of del campo-Monte cristo area. MT Baring in winter. Whitehorse- rock scramble on summit ridge.

Climbed dome 2/3 years ago via the dome glacier route.It is a long way.When I did it we climbed over at least 30 windfallen trees on the steep side hill going up downey crk.The turn up bachelor gave us a little trouble finding the trail at first.That leg of the trail was really brushy and pretty steep.We camped at the lake ( for shame).The route from there is pretty much a long traverse to the toe of the glacier.The icefall is where we roped up.We headed straight up to the left of the ice and reached the fairly level traverse of the glacier.The weather was horrible when I did it and we pretty much relied on gps for navigation. I only noticed one small open crevasse at the time, it was near the NW peak(?) like under it.we did an end run and headed up to the col.The climb up that gully was pretty weird.Just a bunch of half frozen mud and debris mixed with snow. it felt as thought it was all just going to ooze right downt to the glacier.From the col go a hard right and ascend up for a way then up and right to a small flat area where the rock ridge starts scramble the ridge.Anyway thats pretty much all I remember I knoe it is not current but I hope it helps.Be sure to file a report if you do it I would like an update. Tyson-HSA /RBCC

I did the route about three years ago.I went in early june and the hike in was a easy snow walk with great scenery.It is a fun route that wanders a little.the climb is really just a day trip it would be good to combine it with another climb in the area to make a weekend. I dont think i would run up there just to do Kangaroo without taking the time that the area deserves.I must also say that the rap off is pretty damn cool to start.Hope it helps let me know if you want more detail. Tyson- HSA,RBCC

looking for any route information. I am speaking of the spire peak near Index.The beckey guide recommends the trout creek approach via old spur roads,seemingly because the howard creek rd and trails are brushy,the only thing is that the revised green trails map (91)does not even show the spur roads beckey mentions(odd isn't it((ha ha)).Any info would help plan on going in 2 weeks. thanks

Looking for good photos of the squire creek wall any Ideas......Also does anyone know how to get in contact with C&S Engineering (the gear people ) they used to have a web site when doing business out of the old lynnwood sports shop Any help would be appreciated.

$100.00 + shipping. Twig_leaf@hotmail.com

No I ended up heading into the headlee pass area below lewis and morning star peaks(parralling N ridge of lewis) went in about 1 or 2 miles to look at some slabs I had heard about. Talk about crappy weather I havent been that wet since swimming last summer.Ended up turning around when I got into steep loose talus an snow and my dog was having serious problems crossing back and forth over the raging headwaters of the stilly.Next time I will leave the dog home.Lots of potential for some serious slab routes, some maybe as long as 2000 ft.Any takers weekend after next?

Anyone interested in either a guick hike up pilchuck or some rock work at Index on saturday? post reply here or e-mail Twig_leaf@hotmail.com. I live in everett.

I live in everett as well, have been climbing about ten years, looking for partners to train with index weekday evenings/ mt eerie(sp).I can lead trad 5.9 follow 10/10a, minimal aid experience.would like to do longer alpine rock climbs.Cabable on glacier/ snow and low angle ice.Would like to raise the bar for myself and advance my leading grades. I am in the gym 2X a week and ride my bike 3X a week if anyone is up for it I could use the company/Motivation.Email Twig_leaf @hotmail.com. Thanks Tyson

The other two posts pretty much nail it. I climbed the route last june you may wish the first obvious gully is the right one but go around the corner to find the correct route.The climb to high pass is relatively steep and I would consider the runout towards the Mt Bullen basin to be fairly serious.Once you reach the pass I traversed a way and then turned straight up and it was steep (whew).Great views to be sure and you earn them it makes for one long day my party just under 12 hours in fairly descent snow conditions(minimal post holing).good luck hope to see a report.

Interesting route idea I was scoping that out myself when I did a hike to the lake with with my wife and dog.I would seriously wait for the right conditions, we watched avalanches countinously stream down 3 prominent areas on the NE face the entire two hours we were at the lake.The NE gully was one of these areas.When you do it right a report I would like to hear the details. Tyson

We went up the route next to/above the lake trail. The travel through those woods as well as the woods on the south side were at the time that we were there the crux of the route. Tyson

Ray, Im not much of a technical ice climber but there did seem to be some route possibility as well as some fairly well formed ice in the basin under the gully leading to the V notch. It would be to the right of the steepest cliff bands on the south face of the north summit.Some of my more ice savvy partners were wishing they had brought some pro and a rope to have a go on these smears.Personally if I was proficient enough I would like to have a go at a couple of smears that headed up to what appeared to be some short steep sections and then meet the normal route topping out on the ridge maybe 200 feet above the V notch.Anyway the area is worth the trip it is strenous but unique and interesting. with some pretty good exposure.

Did Mt Baring over the weekend.It is a fun climb an easy two days or one long one.Light snow conditions make for some intersesting travel through the south side trees, but route from basin is great.Not a technically difficult climb but some nice exposure on steep snow and rocks toward the top.

Climbed Mt Baring over the weekend, in great weather.No snow to speak of all the way up to 4800'.However the small amounts that were frozrn on the south side woods made for some tricky walking on steep slopes.Camped in basin below gully to notch.Summited sunday in a high overcast somewhat icy the last 800' or so from notch crampons would have been good.headed down broke camp and returned to car with about a hour of daylight left.What a nice climb, a great winter(spring) ascent.