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Alex

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Posts posted by Alex


  1. I've done it in September and it was a fine time. I think biggest problem with Oct will weather-related, as the Pacific High might break  down by then and the storms start rolling in (bringing the skiing..!). The meat of the trip really is mostly above treeline so trying to figure stuff out without any visibility somewhere between Cascade Pass and Cub Lake will make for a bad trip. 


  2. Honestly unless the weather window is amazing I wouldn't spend the time in the cascades unless you are ski touring. If you are ski touring, it would be perfect time of year for Isolation Traverse, Ptarmigan on skis, or Forbidden Traverse

     

    I'd echo Banff for ice, JTree or Red Rocks or Smith for rock climbing. Moab for a week of crusher mountain bikling. Indian Creek if you are up to it. Sierra for melting-out-but-probably very cold higher elevation scrambles


  3. Barney's Rubble, Roto Wall, Playground Point has a few climbs as Gene mentions, we also regularly TR Mountaineers Dome climbs, and make up a bunch more; it depends on your kid a bit. We started them on all these, then graduated to multi-pitch rock climbs and now the 10-year old is leading easier routes.


  4. Lib Ridge and Ptarmigan both are traditionally marginal or "out" by early July in a normal snow year, which this is. Lib Ridge because the Carbon becomes very difficult to navigate and the ridge proper starts melting out. Ptarmigan for different reasons but YMMV.

     

    What's wrong with the route you already did? Kautz isn't a mobbed trade route so it's a good choice, and up-and-over should present plenty of challenge for your group even if you aren't front-pointing the entire way.

     

    I think the Spring will tell better what conditions present in July: If it remains cool and cloudy here with below normal temps, then my first paragraph can be tossed, and you could try Lib Ridge, which is remote but not technically difficult.

     

     


  5. keen, yes.

     

    This is the standard level of in-ness. Some years its like this by late December.

    It's not that popular because there really aren't that many ice climbers in WA (certainly seems like less than there was 15 years ago) and the approach is for real.

    Left of Sep Gully gets hit by sun around mid-Feb. It doesn't take much sun to bleach out the ice and bring those pitches down, since most of them are very steep and don't have a lot of support from below, like Unholy, etc. The stuff on the right side of the cliff, right of Dropline, lasts longer. The stuff over by Dome Peak, like Watchtower, usually lasts til mid-March.

     

    Temps and daylight rapidly rise by late March early April, and while you can spring ski, outside of the Rockies you can't really spring ice climb.


  6. Thanks for the report! Strobach trip looks good! About the same as it ever was. Per my experience, Sad Ce'bu and Sudden Change look to be "very typical" and I think had you got on them, you would have found them probably a little more moderate than what they looked like from below. But once you've gone in there, future trips will be smoother ..!

     

    The LWorth stuff, I might jump on next couple days. March 6th is generally quite pushing it for climbing ice outside of the alpine zones in Washington, so this season is lasting a bit longer than usual!


  7. Well, a short correction to Sid Viscous: you park at Summit West, not Central. The approach from Exit 52 is a bit shorter than the approach from Exit 47 and relatively easy to navigate.

     

    I was at Franklin today, actually, it's fatter than it was last weekend and -20'C when we roped up at 8am!


  8. I was at Franklin Falls on Sat and it was super fun! Which means it's been going a month strong now! There were piles of tourists and many other parties but I kept thinking that the quantity of ice and usability was much better than Hafner or Johnson Canyon. If it was in for this long a cycle *every winter* we'd be super lucky!

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