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Cptn_Sprayhab

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About Cptn_Sprayhab

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  1. [TR] Mt Hood - Elliot Cirque, Variation 05/02/2021

    First off: Funny how the OP still describes this as a FA on his Insta-jizz account. https://www.instagram.com/p/COdjvptBG7T/ Also, since when was the PDX spray club the final word on FA's?! According to that photo the OP linked, myself and a half-dozen other folks should have credits for Eliot HW FA's, but as Clifford said, its all the Eliot Headwall. Thinking some gully or flow is unclimbed just cause Nick hasn't heard the spray is a helluva assumption, and you know what they say about assumptions and donkeys. Consider the number of IFMGA guides who have put up FA's in Alaska and the Himalaya and who started their career guiding on Hood (I can think of at least 4 off the top of my head and I never met most of them). Then you consider guys like Steve House and Scott Johnston and their various partners who were living in Bend while training for and doing FA's in the Karakoram and how they were running fitness laps on all the volcanoes for a solid decade plus. While any number of the old guard can tell you about various ice/mixed lines of significance and who did what, NONE of them are published in the AAJ, a guide book, or online in any form. As someone said in another thread on here recently... "I experienced this issue a few years ago when I went to publish known routes on MP and was asked not to. Part of the reason given by developers and other regulars there was the parking access situation, but the other reason was to preserve the sense of adventure. The community by-and-large did not want to know what was there so that they could continue to practice ground up adventure climbing. Every ascent felt like an FA, until you found some old pins or a bolted belay station, but you had to mentally commit and prepare in the same way. Maybe, for scant resources like Mt. Hood ice routes this same ethic would preserve that sense of adventure. People could simply say "I climbed the Eliot" and post some cool pictures instead of worrying if that exact rock step or ice flow has been done before. Then everyone could go have an adventure and we can build skills for bigger adventures in bigger mountains (which I thought was the point and might actually lead to real FAs)."
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