Mr. Southfork

Jeff Cristol and I (Todd Cozzens) made the probable fourth ascent to the top in early June of 1991. We proceeded the same as the previous ascents: to the top, over the main summit and down via the Rooster/Huntington Col. I've heard of numerous one day blasts to the top of the headwall but I'm uncertain if anyone has tagged the summit since 1991...??? We also started up at night, simul-climbed the lower 1/4, chopped a few butt ledges and napped for 3-4 hours during the "heat of the day." The next push to the headwall was very good alpine ice, thin and narrow here and there with overwhelming spindrift for the last couple hours. We used only screws so far. We chopped a narrow ledge at the base of the headwall for the I tent and got pinned there in a storm for roughly 36 hours. We did the headwall in five pitches, I think, It's been a very long time. The first and last of these being the crux. The final headwall pitch, my lead, was a very runout overhanging chimney with a chockstone at the exit to easy ground. It took me quite some time to "sack up" and pull the roof. Above this we simul-climbed the upper ice/snow fields to a ridge and set up the tent. We were pinned here for another storm. When the storm cleared we traversed to the col, dropped our packs and scrambled to the summit. After retrieving our packs we went over the main summit to begin our descent to the Rooster/Huntington Col. We spent another short night with no food at the top of the first rappel. Next morning we were back at base camp in about 5 hours. We took 5 days for this...