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Loco Raindrops

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Posts posted by Loco Raindrops

  1. 2 hours ago, JasonG said:

    We've outlawed all forms of fun in WA

    Think that has branched off to other parts of the country. 

    My seminar was scheduled for May 24th.

    The svc I was going up Rainier with canned all climbs from June 3rd back with optimism that they may be back out there on June 4th.

  2. My Rainier climb/seminar late May(24th-30th)got cancelled and I'm not even mad. I feel bad for the small businesses taking a hit and those who actually catch the virus. 

    Mountain will always be there. Rainier will just get pushed back to 2021 then barring any "hiccups" I will be on Kahiltna glacier 2022.

    Here in the northeast they even closed the trails for backpacking.

     

    Dayhiking only.

  3. Anyone here have a Grivel ice axe with an easy slider on it? If so is your slider like super easy to bump out of position while "locked" towards the top of your axe?

    When I have mine up top if I breath on it wrong it falls down the shaft. This seems like it would be really annoying on lower angle terrain where you want it out of the way.

    I tried looking for a US support link for Grivel to bug them and nodda. So I came up with a temp solution with some shock cord I had laying around, running it through the loop where the leash attaches to the slider, and when I want the slider in the top position I loop it around adze as seen in the photos below.

    Is it supposed to slide that easy? I mean yeah I get "Easy Slider" but this seems a bit overboard. 

    Are there any cons you can foresee in regards to my solution?

    Only other option I can see is to remove it all together and run the leash through the biner cutout in the pick/down around the handle as many do with a standard leash.

     

    20190802_152909.jpg

    20190802_152926.jpg

  4. Just now, JasonG said:

    I was looking at the Grivel protectors but was leery because they dont actually cover the teeth on the pick. This may be a non-issue being I just dont know any better and too much assumption on my end and always analyzing things from worse case potential. 

    I was thinking of possibly using foam pipe insulation that is used for HVAC.

    Feel free to tell me I am over thinking this at any time lol. 

  5. Hey folks. Time for me to drive you all batty with my overly inquisitive self again. ;)

    So, I have decided to take a train from Pa. to Washington for my Rainier experience. 

    I think the scenery along the way will be awesome. 

    Any suggestions or tricks you all have on how to protect the pick, adze, and spike from gnawing on my other gear while on this multiple 1000 mile foray into the the PNW while in my duffle?

    Im using a Cassin crampon pouch bag thingamabobber for my spikes.

    As always thanks in advance. 

    20190801_144220.jpg

  6. 2 hours ago, DPS said:

    Ascenders can be used instead of Prusik loops for ascending out of a crevasse and in z pull systems and on fixed ropes. Easier to use than Prusiks, but much heavier and not as versatile.  (Prusik loops can be used in anchors, as V-threads, replacement boot laces...)

    I figured as much. I didnt think there were many fixed lines on the DC. So, justified to bring in your opinion or more of a burden due to the weight?

    I figured I can also use a prusik to hang my bear bag somewhere on route not so much for bears but for penguins and rogue Sleestaks. 

    SmartSelect_20190731-130642_Google.jpg

  7. DPS, on the "required list" of items for the Muir seminar thru RMI they actually require a lightweight insulation layer and then a midweight. 

    Thats where the Fortrez and Proton come in on my end. They are kinda forcing me to tote both up the ridge. 

    Scroll down on the link and you will see what I mean. 

    https://www.rmiguides.com/mt-rainier/camp-muir-seminar/equipment

    I have an ascender. Can someone point me out to the pros of bringing one on a climb like this? Just trying to justify having it hanging from my harness. 

  8. I always fit any footwear I purchase towards the end of the day when I have been on my feet all day to compensate for foot swelling. 

    Seen too many make the mistake of not doing so then get out on trail, feet swell, and they are miserable. 

    Length is another animal. If the boot is too short its too short. 

    I also have diff volume of SF insoles. 

    I have the carbons, blues, and Trailblazers which are equivalent of the greens volume wise. 

    My Danner Mountain Light 2s are sz 11.5 and I run the carbons in them. My Lights(cordura side panels) are a sz12 and I run the trailblazers in them.

    Both are a 650 last if I remember right but the ML 2s seem to be a longer more slender fit.

    The ML2s are an EE and they still seem narrower than the standard width Lights. 

    ...I use the Blues in my Baffin Borealis(winter dbl backpacking boot) and in my Garmont Dragontails. 

    Volume can be worked with sometimes.

    ...notice I said "sometimes."

  9. The Proton AR is much warmer than the Fortrez. The Fortrez is basically a hardface fleece with a built in buff. 

    I just get worried about how stringent the guides will be during gear check. Ive heard some horror stories lol. 

    I cant see my combining the Fortrez and Proton on a climb unless I want to drop 40lbs in water weight on the uphill slog via sweat and sweating is the last thing ya want in any cold environment as I am sure doesnt need to be said. 

    I figured that the Fortrez with the 250wt baselayer would be more than adequate in most scenarios at the beginning of the climb and can adjust as needed. 

    RMI has a "required" list of items and I have heard of folks being told if you dont have a specific item some guides will say you either buy it, rent it, or you dont go.

    I have technical ss shirts, etc. My wife tells me all the time that my man cave looks like a REI sales floor. 

    Ive accumulated a lot of gear over the years to say the least lol.

    In all honesty I just want this to go smoothly and not catch static from a guide with my gear choices. 

     

  10. 1 hour ago, DPS said:

    If your toes touch the front of the boot when kicking a stair riser or even pushing your foot forward in the boot that means they are too small.  After a long day of climbing at altitude your feet swell.  Walking downhill in a pair of boots that are too small, especially after climbing all day, is misery. 

    I agree 100%. 

  11. So, I am looking for a synthetic belay jacket. It will only get used on climbs so I dont want to go bonkers buying a $600+ parka. 

    The price premium isn't justified for me for the amount of use it will see. 

    My upper layers consist of SW NTS 250 1/4 zip, Arc Fortrez hoody, Arc Proton Ar(hooded,) Arc Alpha SV if that matters. 

    (I like deadbird stuff, it just fits me.)

    ....when combined this system is very warm to say the least and even in -20s here in Rocksylvania I rarely use this combo unless stagnant. 

    I looked at the Arc Dually but kinda hard swallowing the price tag on it.

    Im considering the BD Stance...

    Any other suggestions out there on a synthetic parka that will do the job and not break the bank? I just dont see the sense in going nuts on this item being the limited use it will see. 

    I just want something that works. 

    I prefer synthetic on this layer but am open to down.

    I may also just rent. 

    As always thanks in advance.  

  12. 7 hours ago, DPS said:

    FYI, HMG knocked $50.00 off the price of their packs.

    Lol thanks. From all accts here on the durability front I think I will pass. 

    Im not easy on my gear. 

    I tried the UL thing years back. Had a BA Copper Spur. Had a nature call one night, caught a guyline with my foot, and the fly split up a seam. 

    Sent it to BA, they repaired it, and I think its somewhere in Alaska now. 

    Was my last stroll thru the UL world. 

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