NCNP Rangers

Trip: Early Morning Spire - SW Face Date: 9/12/2017 Trip Report: It's that time of year for this one. Check out the NOCA climbing conditions blog for some photos and information about our recent trip into the Marble Creek cirque to climb EMS. We found conditions to be great, with the route totally dry and the approach/descent still in reasonable condition. We did a different descent than Nelson's book describes, which involved downclimbing North then West and doing a single rappel to the Marble Creek Glacier. Gear Notes: Medium rack to 2" Approach Notes: Standard Eldorado approach then over to Dorado Col.

I will pass your info on to the rangers who did the trip.

Trip: Mt. Challenger & Whatcom Peak - Challenger & Whatcom Glaciers Date: 8/21/2017 Trip Report: We did a patrol to the Northern Pickets last week, climbing almost all of Challenger, and approaching over Whatcom Peak. Look here for a link to the NPS/NOCA Conditions page with photos and more information. The most pertinent thing to share is that accessing the final rocky summit of Challenger is very difficult right now due to a large moat feature. We exited via Eiley Wiley Ridge and the Big Beaver Valley. Approach Notes: Hannegan Pass-Whatcom Pass-Whatcom Peak

The other exceptions primarily address folks accessing Ross Lake from the Canadian side. Check here (NPS/NOCA page) for more detailed information. Also remember that you can self-issue for many of the less busy sections of the park, such as the Pickets, at any of the North Cascades NP ranger stations. While this doesn't save you a trip, it does give flexibility in terms of timing. Self-issue is not allowed for anywhere accessed via the Cascade River Road, or campsites on Ross Lake.

Is there any legal way for Canadians to register from Canada for this without first crossing into the US to reach officialdom? Or should we just keep wearing goat costumes and slipping across unnoticed? Canadian residents can obtain a permit over the phone by calling the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. This is one of the rare exceptions to the rule of obtaining your permit in person.

Trip: Depot Creek - South Face Redoubt Date: 7/19/2017 Trip Report: Here is a link to a report from our recent patrol into the beautiful Depot Creek area, yes we do patrols there from time to time. North Cascades National Park climbing conditions Just a reminder on permits: you do need one to camp anywhere in North Cascades National Park, any time of year. If you're going to Depot Creek you need to register for the Depot XC zone. You can do this at the Sedro-Wooley ranger station, or call the Marblemount Wilderness Information Center if you have additional questions.

Nice TR. Here is a link to a TR on our Conditions Blog from just before your trip, we also did a patrol of that route just after your trip. Of course we found very similar conditions, the only difference would be that we went over Sharkfin Col proper. We did two single rope rappels, with existing anchors in place for both. Regarding your experience at the Wilderness Information Center: you are correct that most of the north side of Forbidden Peak is in the Forbidden XC zone. The exact boundary between the Boston Basin and Forbidden XC zones does extend a bit north of the east/west ridges expressly to prohibit folks from using a Forbidden zone permit to essentially camp in Boston Basin. We have to deflect that strategy a lot and it sounds like unfortunately there was a little confusion about your party's intentions. I'm glad it worked out and it looks like you had a great trip.

Hello all, North Cascades National Park climbing rangers here. We've been starting to get out in the Park much like many of you, and wanted to provide some recent info. For starters, the Cascade River road is now open all the way to the Cascade Pass parking lot. No more bonus hiking. Here is a link to our Conditions Blog: North Cascades NP conditions blog Note that this link takes you to the Boston Basin specific portion of the conditions pages, there are also pages for Shuksan, Eldorado, and the catch all, "Other Popular Routes." We try to update these pages weekly during the summer with information from wherever we've been lately. If you go somewhere interesting and want to share, email us at noca_wilderness@nps.gov Be safe out there, happy climbing! -North Cascades National Park Climbing Rangers

Hey All, It's great to see some amazing trips being done in North Cascades National Park lately. We rangers have been getting out as well, and wanted to post a link to the blog that we maintain in case people were unaware of it: North Cascades Climbing Ranger Blog This blog has existed for a while and we plan to update it regularly throughout the rest of the alpine climbing season. Our updates for Eldorado, Shuksan, and Boston Basin will be in those tabs respectively. Check the Boston Basin section for a recent TR on the East Ridge of Forbidden. "Other Routes" is a bit of a catchall where we will post everything else. Check "Other Routes" for this year's trips to Ruth-Icy, Mt. Blum, and a post from today including photos of Buckner, Early Morning Spire, the West Arete of Eldorado, and others. Please feel free to email us with pertinent route info and/or photos at: noca_wilderness@nps.gov Here's the West Ridge Coulior two days ago: Happy Climbing! -North Cascades NP Climbing Rangers