JMS001

disregard! found someone thanks

looking for a partner for slesse this weekdend. its a big mission and long hike/ climb. must be able to lead up to alpine 5.9. jm.savoie51@gmail.com 778-870--4421

Trip: Squamish-Garibaldi provincial park - Mt, Atwell-South ridge (AI3 AD IV) Date: 4/8/2016 Trip Report: Date: April 8-10, 2016 Peak: Mt. Atwell (Garibaldi provincial park) Squamish Route: South ridge (AI3 AD IV) Round trip: 24 hrs Climbers: Jean-marc Savoie/ Mike Guiditis My friend Mike and I finally got around to climbing Atwell. It involved lots of steep exposed ridge walking, sometimes knife edged. Mostly easy except for 2 technical sections involving moving around rimed up rock walls. One early on, the prominent large triangular rock and higher up near the summit rime tower. The cornices are huge and scary. We were 1-2 hours too late on this climb. We should have camped on diamond head peak to start on the ridge sooner. We paid for this with a fearful day threatened by snow, ice rock fall and possible wet slab avalanche hazard. Escape meant facing these things anyways. Best time to climb is march April but it has to get below freezing the night before. Mega EXPOSURE like i said. Not a beginner route. Any questions or you need beta call 778-870-4421. Pic of mike on summit belaying me up the other side and pic of me standing on ridge on the way up. Gear Notes: We packed our overnight kit and skis as this meant we didn't need to make our way back to diamond head. Leaving camp at diamond head wouldn't be totally bad though. Regarding protection we used a single 60m 8.0 rope and: -3 alpine draws -5 nuts -2 small pins -2 axes each -steel crampons -1 picket and 1 msr fluke -3 aluminum screws Could have used another picket. Only used 1- 22 cm screw. Zero rock pro found due to being loose volcanic rock. Snow pro was sufficient. Lots of tat and couple bail biners. Approach Notes: Left at 4 pm on the 8th due to dragging our asses. Drive from squamish up to parking lot for elfin lakes. From here its about 3 hours to the hut, we stopped here to eat (beds, fuel, stove). We continued on to the top of colunmer/ gargoyle ridge and crossed over (by this time its dark-2 more hours hiking). We stopped to camp at the beginning of the hill up to diamond head. Nice camp spot behind trees. We woke at 3 and didn't get going till 4. We basically made it to summit of diamond head for sun up. From here follow ridge to summit. We descended main east face couloir. Camped at bottom of glacier and egress via ring creek to elfin hut in the morning.

the sled certainly presents challenges for the skier. Is it not possible in a group of skiers to just fit all the supplies into the packs? yes heavy packs, but no stupid sled. i know for my self i can safely ski steep shitty snow with a 40 lbs pack just fine.

I have the skimo skills you are looking for and the desire to climb denali. i am also looking to build partnerships with keen, prepared, strong, fun individuals. I wasn't planning on denali this year (going to waddington) but i am interested in getting out on some cascade objectives to get to know you to become a potential partner. let me know if this appeals to you. i live in squamish. jm.savoie51@gmail.com

has anyone climbed rainier this winter? if so by which route? on skis or not?

did you guys end up doing this trip? if so did you use skis the whole way or walk? which route? conditions? navy hazard? I'm asking cause i am into doing a ski ascent (this winter). I'm under the impression winter ascents are best done from paradise, and am i right to say the DC is the typical winter route?

thanks for your input guys! I'm gonna give it more time

has anyone been up baker lately and seen if theres ice yet forming on colfax (cosley houston) or is it still too early?

thanks DPS and others! i do not have vol. 2 ..... i will find someone who does and photo copy it. I will maybe try for early dec.

Does anyone have beta/photos/comments regarding the northwest ice couloir on Eldorado peak. Is october a good time to go? rack suggestions (are pickets needed?)

Wow sorry for my delay in response time to all this kind beta. I have so many options now for routes to investigate and go climb. thanks so much to everyone for their valued feedback.

Would like to hear peoples opinions on what there favourites alpine mixed climb is on the south west coast and cascade areas? go

Trip: Squamish BC, Canada - Centurion Date: 9/9/2015 Trip Report: Mark lacroix and I decided to find and climb a newer multi pitch route at chek canyon north of squamish, known for its decent steep sport climbing. From the regular parking lot for chek head up the FSR with a 4x4 to large gravel turn around or walk to here if driving 2 wheel drive. Continue on road until obvious trail splits off on the left. Follow this for 15 min to very large scree field. Follow cairns to bottom of climb. Refer to topo for pitch by pitch break down. Overall the climb was worth doing, nice rock and good holds. Protection is very good. Rap route for decent (good safe hardware). Long slings were very useful to reduce rope drag. Great views above the hwy 99 valley. Gear Notes: 12 draws, long draws are best, bring 5 extendable, no tat needed. Approach Notes: If not using a truck, it feels like a bit of a long haul since its all up hill. Its a very well groomed trail. No signs or ribbon tape but very obvious.

Awesome, plans are coming together. So far with both of you interested there is a total of 4 team members. I texted both of you so you have my cell. Still some time to go, so keep me updated on if you wanna go or not.