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Seraphim

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Everything posted by Seraphim

  1. ^ Ditto. You show the rest of us, that we are nothing more than mere mortals
  2. Do you mind saying who you used. I am talking to Allstate who we do home/auto with, but frankly I'd rather have a detailed/educated discussion with someone with a clue. I'll send you a PM
  3. I recently (about a year ago) got a policy and I will offer some of my experience. Make sure you go through a good company. First.... Be totally honest about your climbing past. When I signed up for my policy, they had someone interview me 2X (30 mins each time) concerning my climbing history. And yes they do ask very detailed questions like: What type of climbing (sport, alpine, etc..) How high have you been? Did you use cams, and ice tools?, and how often do you go climbing. I was surprised at how detailed the questions were, it was obvious that they did their research. It is important that you are honest, because if you do not disclose your previous activities there is a chance they will fight any type of pay out later on in life (depending on the circumstance of death). Plus some companies do look at your Facebook, and social media sites to find out about you (beleive it or not). I actually got a really good deal on my policy (30 year term), and my previous climbing activity had no impact on my payment. Now if you are a mtn. guide you can pretty much forget getting a policy. Many companies will outright reject you If you are a recreational climber you should be fine (depending on the company). P.S. You might want to keep all your future ambitious plans to yourself.
  4. Hey Tyson, I did the SW couloir route. I did 6 rappels because I was by myself, and there was lots of loose rock coming down. Basically whenever I saw rap slings I used them. I could have easily done it in 2 or 3 rappels. In the lower couloir there was lots of "postholing" and I didn't want to put up with it. Mainly I didn't want to downclimb the pile of cr@p. Plus the final chockstone had a big moat around it forming. Hope that makes sense. The route is melting out fast.
  5. Trip: North Cascades - SW couloir on South Early Winter Spire. Elevation: 7807 ft / 2380 m Date: 5/15/2014 Trip Report: Last week was beautiful and sunny. Took Thursday off from work and had no partner available to climb with during this brief window of nice weather. SW couloir on SEWS sounded pretty straight forward and doable for a solo climb. I contemplated trying this route on Friday (the 16th), but the weather didn't look quite as nice; plus the window on this route is closing fast. Left the Seattle area around 3am, and made it to the trailhead by 7:30am. I ditched the slow shoes and headed up to the base of the climb. By 10:00am I was at the base. Here is a picture I took from the hairpin (looks impressive from this side) Honestly I am not sure this route will be in good condition within another week. There were a few short sections of water ice, and the upper colouir is melting out fast. ] Summit was beautiful: I contemplated rappelling the south arete, but decided to use the anchors in the colouir. I did 6 rappels total (you could do 2 or 3, but I was by myself). Ran into a goat at the base. Was hoping he wouldn't charge me! I was down at the base by 2:30, and on my way back to Seattle just in time for the cruddy drive through the suburbs of Bellevue. Red Bull helps with the drive. Some final thoughts. I thought the climb was pretty fun, but I think the window on this is closing fast. The upper couloir is melting fast, and lots of chossy/cruddy rock is in the couloir, on the way down I created quite a few rockslides. Luckily no one else was on the route at the time. I had the whole day to myself! Gear used: Two tools, 60 meter rope, belay device, crampons.
  6. Nice TR. I have been wanting to do this climb for years because of its relative "ease". Just haven't been free during the right narrow window. BTW check your PM.
  7. You "skiers" always make us slowshoe folks feel bad From what you are saying; I am assuming there was plenty of snow up the entire colouir?
  8. Now that Hwy 20 is open I would love to do the SW colouir on SEWS. I know this climb only has a very short window (maybe a month?) Anyone been up recently? Thanks.
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