Paul Max

If Alexei doesn't take them, I probably will. PM me. Thanks, Jordan

Beginning of pitch two, in a crack of a fixed boulder on the left before the first bolt on the start of the 5.8 ahead. AKA 15 or 20 feet above the tree that serves as the anchor atop P1. Cam is a #2 Chouinard. Old school thing. Would love to get it back. Name your beer. Thanks! PM

Beginning of pitch two, in a crack of a fixed boulder on the left before the first bolt on the start of the 5.8 ahead. AKA above the tree that serves as the anchor atop P1. Cam is a #2 Chouinard. Old school thing. Would love to get it back. Name your beer. Thanks! PM

Does anyone have experience with Mt. Yoran or South Mt. Yoran in the winter? I've read that Mt. Yoran itself can develop some good ice climbing in the right conditions. How about steep snow/couloirs? I'm looking for some local alpine-style fun for the winter. Thanks, PM

I climbed the Peregrine Traverse at Acker Rock on Monday. Interesting climb, to say the least. Unfortunately my second was unable to remove a cam I placed at the beginning of the second pitch... He says he wasn't familiar with the old school Chouinard cams, and this one walked back into the crack pretty far apparently. He ended up leaving it there to continue the climb. I'm sure it would come out with some wiggling and pulling on the right lever. In any case, if anyone is heading up there any time soon, it's a Chouinard Camalot #2 and it's in a crack about 15 feet into the second pitch, right before the more vertical rock traverse starts (the end of the first pitch being the first big tree with a sling I believe). Because the route takes you down the other side of Acker Rock,and we finished at sunset, I did not have time to walk the hour and a half out-and-back to retrieve it. I would love to get the thing back if anyone is going to Acker Rock before too much rain ruins it. I would happily pay for shipping/collection and throw in a bonus to buy you a pack of your choice of beer Thanks PM

Did you end up going? What are the conditions like?

Did you end up going? I passed by Hoodoo and it looked like the Washington north ridge was pretty much snow/ice. As opposed to the south ridge of TFJ, which is probably only 30% snow/ice. The weather was crap saturday though...

For what it's worth (from the same trip above, 4/13) I'm interested in Thielsen for this weekend, but I'm afraid this week's snow will make the pinnacle a bit too snowy.

I'm considering Thielsen for the following weekend... With similar exposure on 4th/5th class rock moves, I'm interested to know if you plan on doing Washington as a snowy rock ascent, or as a rocky mixed winter/ice ascent? I'm unsure how to judge the conditions on these two mountains and don't want to get up to the pinnacle and have to back out because I didn't come prepared for a winter style ascent. (I'm waiting for a weather window to do a scrambling ascent with rock protection). Any tips on how you judge the conditions on Washington for this trip would be helpful!

If I remember correctly, you'll spend some time on a glacier on the standard south face route. I've done it a handful of times in the summer and never used gear other than crampon and axe. Maybe you'll need to be cautious about crevasses this early in the season... I'm not sure. But I would guess you'll be at least intermittently on a glacier past the treeline.

Summitted via the South Ridge from Marie Lake on Sunday morning. The snowshoe approach in was on slippery wet snow, but no snowshoes would mean postholing to knees and hips. We got the subaru to about 1.5 miles from the Marie Lake TH (trail #3632 I believe). The snow got pretty hard at night... left camp at 3am and made the summit at 6am for sunrise. Some postholing below the treeline, but on the ridge the snow was windblown and hard. Summit ridge had howling winds (50 or 60 mph?)but manageable. We saw some ski tracks near the summit... maybe from Kirk as they were a few days old. No skeeters yet.