mksportn

Names, Names, names. I actually want to talk about the climbing there... I've been climbing out there a bunch lately (It's how I keep my sanity while doing month long hangboard training to work my projects). First, I found "Sweet Fucker" to just that! Nice work on that line Bill. Next, The Head Wall is also damn good. Though I personally thought liebacking around the bulge in that good crack was more like a 5.9 crux. Great route. That and Step and Fetch It are probably my faves there currently. (oh, and Closeout, how did I forget about that one! quite the route for this area!). Lastly, I wanted to ask about adding an anchor to Adam's Crack. I know it says it was rejected, but I just wanted to bring it up again. That 40' of dirt scramble to the tree sling is, well... nasty. I was being careful, and I still got pine pitch on my hands and shoes!! Any thoughts? Doesn't matter to me, as I'll probably never do it again, but figured I'd ask for future climbers!

Every time a pin gets hammered in, Beacon crumbles just a little more. Didn't you guys see the news? Why do you think Half Dome is crumbling...

The biners are either from my coworkers at Vancouver Fire Tech Rescue Team, or skamania tech team. Both teams were on the rescue, I hadn't heard about who left the biners.

http://peripheralscrutiny.blogspot.com/2011/06/landscape-new-look-at-route-grades.html

I personally think that YDS does a pretty good job describing difficultly of routes as whole. I think it fails at rating cruxes. So I prefer a mix of YDS and V grades. For instance, I climbed Closet Nazi (12a) at Broughton Bkuff today. I would describe that route as a 12a with a V3 crux. That tells you the route grade is partially due to pump, as V3 along would be 11+. obviously it's not perfect, but I think gives a better visual of the routes difficulty than just YDS.

I don't remember if I onsighted it or not (I don't remember falling on it before though), but I would have graded it 5.10c.

As the guy that pulled most of those bolts out of the The Crumbling, I personally wouldn't trust those bolts. Very easily loosened and then they basically fell out. One pulled completely out (a bolt placed on an overhang) and was replaced a couple years ago. The brand and style of these bolts were discovered two weeks ago when the 2nd bolt loosened on a fall, and then pulled out by hand. That's two failures on one route in a few years time span. That doesn't equate to safe bolts in anyone's world... (I hope). I replaced all of the bolts on the Crumbling this past week after that. At best, testing has confirmed that these bolts are marginal at best, with random strength rating, and that they are difficult to place correctly for maximum strength. I was talking with Greg Barnes from the ASCA, and he says "they are not appropriate for climbing an any circumstances, regardless of strength." I can understand that they may have been the better choice a long time ago (20+ years ago) but it's time to stop defending them as adequate bolts for new routes.. They don't even come in stainless steel as far as I can tell, which should the minimum requirement in our area...

Adding to the first post, we also replaced all the bolts on Tin Tangle, and replaced the sketchy top anchor for all the routes going to the top of the dome.

Drederek - We used SS 1/2" 5-piece bolts, so yes, they will last much longer than any of us will be climbing. And unlike wedges they are removable when the inevitable happens in 100 years or so.

Nice work getting that nut out. Wasn't mine, but we saw the guys that got it stuck. Both Bryan and I both tried to get it out. It was in there!

Dad's Nuts

I'm down to do some bolts at Carver as well. I'm not too familiar with Carver, but I'd be totally willing to help you there, Brian, I think we should have enough bolts.

Hey all! So I am spearheading (with Adam) a project to replace all 1/4" bolts, rusted 3/8" bolts, any bolt with a homemade hanger, and any rusted anchors at French's Dome and Broughton's Bluff. Funding has been provided by the ASCA for the bolts, and I have 200 on the way right now, as well as 100 SS rap rings. So now what I need is climbers/developers interested in helping with replacing bolts and belaying, or that are interested in letting us borrow tools for the project (Drills, static ropes, ascenders, etc). Also, I need to know what bolts need to be replaced at French's Dome and Broughton's Bluff if you can think of any. I noted about 115 bolts between the two cliffs that I felt should be replaced. If you can recall a route at one of those crags with bad bolts, please post below or message me. Please message me if you are interested in helping out. The goal to have many of the new bolts in before winter, with French's being first, and then heading to Broughton. I've also talked with Jim and Adam about replacing bad bolts at Beacon as well. Kenny has agreed to put a list together. Let me or Adam know if you are interested! Micah

The main reason people don't climb here is that hardly anyone knows about it. I think it would be worth putting on Mountain Project.

That bail anchor showed up about two months ago. I heard that a couple guys ended up getting way off route and had to bail late at night.

I agree. He claimed it was overbolted "even by Ozone standards". not his decision tho.

Hey all, So I live about 10 min from good old Rocky, and since I'm so conveniently close, I climb there a good bit when I don't have the time to get elsewhere. I've been picking up garbage, etc, and decided that I'm going to really get to work on it this winter. Take advantage of wet days, and clean up garbage and glass. On decent days, I'm thinking of roping some of the dirtier or overgrown climbs, and cleaning them as well with a wisk broom and clippers, and also possibly improving the belay stations at the bases of the routes as well. Any interest out there to help? If so, shoot me a PM, and I'll send you my phone number. - Micah

Hey, my normal climbing partner hurt his hand, so he's out. I'm looking to hit some gorge climbing tomorrow, looking to see if anyone is interested. I'm game for trad up to 5.10a, and sport up to 5.10+. I'm thinking since its supposed to rain tonight that Ozone will be the best location to climb tomorrow. I'm free all day. Pm me for my phone number. Micah