Trip: Mt. Rainier, Washington - Kautz to DC Carryover 
  
Date: 7/3/2013 
  
Trip Report: 
Hey all, 
  
Just returned from a fun trip on Rainier going up the Kautz and coming down the DC over the July 4 holiday. We had great weather all days, and had maybe 40mph winds with 32F temps on the summit. 
  
Conditions in the Kautz chute were a bit all over the place with about 6 inches of manky snow on top of ice. Higher up the chute in the steeper parts the ice was more prominent. We sunk a couple screws in through this part as a running belay. I was also happy to have 1 ice tool along with my standard mountaineering axe. 
  
There is also, what I felt, was a pretty secure fixed line at the rock step prior to dropping onto the Kautz. Though still takes an awkward move or 2 to get past this section. 
  
A couple good water sources on route up to about 12k, with an especially solid one about 200 feet above Castle camp.  
  
Cheers! 
Andy 
  
Looking up the Fan:  
  
Taking a rest while a couple guided teams clear the bottom of the chute:   
  
Clearing the crux:   
  
A team below:   
  
Quick summit shot:   
  
Upper DC:   
  
Handlines through an ice fall on the upper Ingraham:   
  
Party at Muir:   
  
Gear Notes: 
Standard glacier gear + an ice tool. 
  
Approach Notes: 
Paradise