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Posts posted by ccox42

  1. We climbed the route yesterday by the Boston Glacier approach with a spectacular bivy at the north ridge notch. Getting onto the rock from the higher snow ramp was trivial with no moat or serac shenanigans. Here is a photo of the terrain below the west ridge notch taken from where we gained the rock. It likely would have saved us lots of time but I was glad to have taken the long route just for the incredible bivy. Have fun out there. 


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  2. Anyone interested in climbing ice/mixed in Banff area, Cody, or Lillooet 1/26-2/2? I’m very familiar w/ the Banff area. Less so w/  Cody and Lilloet though I’ve climbed in both areas. I’m hoping to find a partner w/ a fair amount of winter climbing experience and am happy to discuss mine. I’ve got a Tacoma and a truck camper w/ propane heat that i was planning on using to keep the cost down if the forecast isn’t too cold. I’d be leaving from Seattle. Hit me up. 

  3. I'm looking for a partner for a trip to the Sierra. I will be traveling from Seattle and would be psyched to roadtrip with someone from the PNW but would also be happy to meet someone down there. My timeframe is 9/5 to 9/17 ish. I am not set on any specific routes but my preference is towards routes in the 5.10 to 12- range or long traverses/ link-ups.


    Some of my ideas include Evolution or Minaret Traverse, Edge of Time Arete on the Citadel, Bastille Buttress to the summit of Lone Pine Peak, Harding Route on Keeler Needle, anything on the Hulk other than the Red Dihedral, East Face of Aiguille Extra, The Emperor on Bubb's Creek Wall, and Astro Gil on Tehipite Dome. I am also down to spend some time in the valley if the temps are reasonable. I am completely open to other routes and expect to add to this list in the coming week. Hit me up. Cheers.

  4. Anyone interested in a last minute alpine mission this week (Tue-Fri or some part of that time)?


    Some ideas include: CHEHALIS (Vienese to Clark Traverse and then Tuning Fork on Bardean), a couple routes on CASTLE PEAK (Harrington-Kearney and Harrington-Hirst), NESAKWATCH SPIRES (Dairyland, Bugaboo Crack, Fairytales and Fantasies), PASAYTEN (various options on Cathedral, Amphitheater, and Deacon), and COLCHUCK BALANCED ROCK (Scoop and Let it Burn). Alternatively, with the right partner I've got some more committing and chossy ideas.

  5. My partner and I are seeking two other climbers to share a helo into the Waddington range around the first two weeks in August. We plan to fly from Tatla Lake into the Tiedemann Glacier with White Saddle Air. The cost of the flight will be 600-700 USD per person w/ a group of 4. If there are any individuals who might be interested we know a 3rd person who would be a strong partner for rock or mixed routes if they can find a partner w/ similar interest in longer technical objectives. Hit me up if you're interested. I was in the range last summer and would love to chat. Cheers.

  6. We found some cams and slings beneath Tatoosh/Thin Fingers on Saturday 7/16. After trying to find the owner we believed that they had already returned to the city. Someone said that the climbers names might be Jeff (Hall?) and Bev (or Beth?) but this might be entirely wrong. If anyone knows climbers that lost gear on 7/16 please pass the word along. c.cox.42@gmail.com

  7. I know this is a long shot...A friend and I are headed north for a week and only have one set of approach skis between the two of us. We will make do with snowshoes if necessary but I thought I would put this out there incase a generous soul was willing to let us rent/ borrow an old pair of skis with skins. Anything that would fit a 29.5 scarpa maestrale or a climbing boot would work. Something with silverettas would be perfect. I might be willing to buy them if they are really cheap, otherwise I would rather just borrow them for a weak. Let me know what you think would be fair compensation. We leave Friday 4/3 and will be returning on 4/12. We're in the Seattle area. Cheers.

  8. We climbed the route on Sunday with the variation left of the fin as you described. The ice near the bottom was getting a bit slushy after a couple very warm days last week but I expect the colder temps this week should return it to prime condition. The pitch around the fin was engaging with some small edges and a little chimney action. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. A fantastic climb. Go get it! Start early and you could run up Acid Baby or The Valkyrie on your way down :) They looked more or less dry on Sunday.



  9. I've got lots of ideas for ice and mixed routes and am flexible. Let's bounce some ideas off each other if you might be interested.


    Two routes that are very compelling with the current conditions are Watusi Rodeo on Colonial and The Misunderstandin on Mixxup.





    206 - two -nine - five - zero -154


    Feel free to call late.

  10. I'd love to find an ice climbing partner for a trip to Canmore or Cody for part or all of the week between 2/4 and 2/13. I'm in Seattle and would love to connect with someone in WA but would be interested in meeting up with anyone already in those areas or anywhere along my route. Hit me up if you have time/interest and want to talk about details. I'm open to other ideas as well. c.cox.42 At gmail