Drew Hecht

I agree. I'm new here and have only been on the mountain once but I was taken aback at the ugly guide hut when I got there.

That's badass! It likely would never happen in the US though.

What a trip! What a mountain! And what cool people! Thanks to all on CC for your guidance. We arrived on Monday and climbed up to Muir on Tuesday and summited on Wednesday in what I would describe as "beach weather" - light wind, clear skies and route conditions that could only be described as "stellar". We stayed around through Thursday and watched the mountain exfoliate rock and ice and just hung out. Ed Viesters even showed up. The only downer was witnessing two guides and their short-roped client fall at the low end of the cleaver in a horrifying, tumbling ball of bodies and sharp climbing gear. The client broke his leg and was air-lifted out late that day. I hope he's well and recovering. Everyone be safe and thanks again. I can't wait to get back up there!

Yeah, it looks like, weather allowing, we might have a good chance at summiting our first time on Rainier. Thanks for the heads up. We already were thinking of leaving around 12:30 (or earlier) if there are large groups up there. I've also been following the tragedy of climbing ranger Nick Hall. That's incredibly sad. I understand he was the real deal. However, with this incident in mind, I sharpened my crampons to the point that they will draw blood.

Thanks Dustin, I didn't think so but thought I'd ask.

Psyched!!!! Leave tomorrow for Seattle and Paradise and up to Muir on Tuesday. Does anyone think I need to bring wands? ...or can I take them out of my luggage. thanks

Good to know, thanks again DPS

why not? Of course, I'll use the marked route. And I have a reasonable expectation that it will likely be in good condition. I just don't assume any route will be in perfect condition the day I get there.

I was wondering about the crevasse exposure in that month. I know it varies with the year but how difficult will it be to negotiate route finding. I would imagine the guide services would have beat down quite a trail by then but I don't want to rely on that of course. I'm more curious in terms of time I should allow. (in other words can I sleep an hour longer - haha or should I get up an hour earlier to allow time for more difficult route finding) - thanks!

Thanks, we are planning on doing some practice. Actually, you can never practice too much and I know I don't do it enough to make it second nature.

Thanks Jason. I actually added an extra day. Wouldn't hurt getting to know the mountain some.

DPS, thanks very much. I think I'll take your advice and see if there is room in the shelter. If not, I'll plan on bringing my single wall tent. By-the-way: the worst storm I've ever had the displeasure of being in was spent in my buddy's Betamid during snowstorm that turned into a hard freezing rain - great shelter! Any other ideas for my trip up there - feel free.

Howdy All, My first post here. I'm heading up disappointment cleaver in late July with a friend and was looking for some insider beta. I would prefer to go as light as possible while maintaining reasonable preparation for the crud. It's been my experience that I over prepare (bring too much gear) for unknown mountains or regions I'm not yet familiar with and I'm hoping to avoid carrying superfluous weight. A little background: I've done other Cascade Mountains (Shasta / Hood) in spring and summer via non-standard routes. I've also done a bunch in the Sierra in all seasons. Some of the questions I have are (assuming a fair weather report): Tent: single wall or double wall Or Bivy Sack? How about my summit pack(Sleeping bag and Bivy sack or Down Jacket and a Trash bag)? Any advice for this route in July is appreciated. thanks!