senior_cush

Invernos are sold but the Intuition liners are still for sale!

I'm selling a pair of men's Scarpa Inverno mountaineering boots, size 11. They've seen light use over a couple of seasons (haven't done much climbing in New England) and come with the stock liners. There are no defects and the boots climb great. I upgraded the laces to spectra cord. I'm also selling a pair of Intuition Denali liners (men's size 11). They were heat molded once at Feathered Friends but I only used them on a pair of climbs so they are in excellent condition. The liners can be molded multiple times according to the manufacturer's website. [img:left]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A7g7YaW1jDY/U9mztOxt20I/AAAAAAAABC4/F0CCcFaCGjs/w912-h684-no/IMG_5888.JPG[/img] Asking $100 for the boots with stock liners, $80 for the Intuition boots on their own, I'd be happy to package them off together for a slight discount. Scarpa Inverno: Inverno Intuition Denali: Denali Liners

Damn you Ape, we should have done this last week when I was still out there! Jealous already...

Thanks man! Also thanks for sharing that link, pretty effing awesome. I can't imagine the sufferfest of biking up from Tlachichuca to the 14k camp. OUCH.

You're welcome. Here's a link to a more detailed post if you're interested: Mexico TR We bailed on Izta due to AMS. We also did Malinche (14k) but it's so incredibly easy despite its high altitude that I didn't feel like it warranted a TR here.

Good stuff! Glad you guys take hydration seriously as well! Another one to add to my Cascade to-do list.

Trip: Mt Rainier - Kautz Glacier/DC single push Date: 7/17/2013 Trip Report: I was out in the PNW for about 10 days and first up on the climbing trip was Adams via Adams Glacier with Alex (APE). After Adams Alex had some work to do down in Eugene so I crashed with him for a couple of days. On the drive down we talked about else we should go after this trip and what some of our goals of routes were in the Cascades over the next couple of years. I mentioned I really wanted to do Rainier in 'a day' (<24 h) and we had a lengthy discussion on how to go about it. Long story short a couple of days later we rolled into the park around 3 pm after an early start from Eugene and a couple of work calls en route. On the drive up to Paradise we decided we'd scrap our plan of doing a carryover the Kautz and instead just go for Rainier in a single push. I was excited but wished I had gotten more than 5 hours of sleep the night before to go for that kind of climb. Oh well. It was a blast anyways. a team of climbers just getting onto the ridge getting onto the Wilson Glacier baking in the late afternoon sun but a little smug with my decision to wear shorts dusk from about 9.5k We ran into 2 rangers and a couple of groups around 9k. The rangers said they'd be starting up at 5am from there. They caught up to us at the fixed line just above the top of the DC sometime around 9:45am. My mind is blown thinking of how fast they had to have been moving to go from 9k to 12k on the other side of the mountain in less than 5 hours. Crazy impressive stuff. Or maybe they just wanted to mess with us! We ended up hanging out for a few hours at about 9.5k where there's running water just below the turtle so we caught the sunset and made dinner there and relaxed for a bit. rainier's shadow at dawn from high up on the Kautz we opted for the relentless upper Kautz instead of crossing over onto the Nisqually after the ice chutes. Alex and I were both feeling pretty pooched and I definitely felt like Cougar in the opening scene of Top Gun topping out on fumes thanks to a lack of sleep and slacking off on eating. We ended up hitting the summit around 7:30am, a few hours later than we had hoped for but still OK by us. the face of victory when type 2 fun is involved a little while later we got caught in a line to get onto the DC as there's a fixed line for a short ice climb above a crevasse. we lost quite a bit of time there and waiting for parties to clear below us on the DC and in Cathedral Pass as well. But hey we still made good time down to Paradise for afternoon burgers and beers in Ashford! Awesome climb Alex! Gear Notes: carried screws and 2 pickets but only placed a single screw on the 2nd pitch of the ice chutes Approach Notes: the fan was melted out and we saw a few minutes worth of continuous rockfall from the snowfields so we headed further up on the Wilson to get onto the ridge

Trip: Mt Adams - Adams Glacier Date: 7/13/2013 Trip Report: Last summer I was out in the PNW for about 2 weeks and we got one sunny, rain-free day. The summer before we had to wait out the weather for a week just to get one mediocre day to go for Rainier. I damn nearly swore off the whole area but on a whim I booked a last minute trip out there for 10 days. It didn't rain once. It was a heck of a trip to say the least. First up was Adams via Adams Glacier with APE... We camped out at about 7k in the meadows on 7/12 and had ourselves a lazy afternoon. That night we got up a bit on the late side and made the mistake of heading right for the route from the meadows and climbed up onto the moraine only to realize we'd have to climb down the other side. Aside from that blunder the walk up to the route was pretty mellow. When we got up into the jumbled mess 1/3 of the way up there was a way through on the climbers right which gets you more into the middle of the glacier and you can avoid climbing the vertical ice cliffs. After that it's nice climbing. Eventually we did run into a steep ramp (~50-60 deg) that had a big gap on the other side. There were some small bridges to the right that let us onto the easy upper slopes. You could see the upper glacier from there and it was cake after that. We both strongly disliked the North Ridge descent. A carspot on the south side may be in order next time... Adams Glacier Sunset from camp sun setting into clouds it's gonna be a good day... first pitch balanced block getting into the jumbled mess nice climbing above the jumbled mess toasty! Gear Notes: 2 tools, handful of screws, and 3 pickets

Trip: Pico de Orizaba, Mexico - Jamapa Glacier Date: 1/2/2013 Trip Report: Sorry for the belated post but figured this might be useful for those looking into Pico de Orizaba (~18,500 ft) in Mexico. On Dec 30th we traveled to the town below Orizaba, Tlachichuca, which surprisingly had a direct bus from Puebla. That was an interesting bus ride as I'm sure we had about 30 people on the bus beyond the seated capacity (cue Entrain's 'Mexican Bus'). But for a 90 minute bus ride that cost around $5, a nice bargain. We stayed with the Reyes family that runs Servimont. We nearly had the whole place to ourselves. For New Years Eve we got an afternoon ride up to the Piedra Grande Hut at 14k and we wisely brought a tent since we had heard nothing but bad news about staying in the huts. The area around the hut smelled foul, probably from the high traffic and dry weather. It's frequented by families that drive up and explore the area around 14-15k. The fact that you can drive up this high gets a lot of people into trouble and in fact we no sooner arrived and were walking past the hut that we were treated to a close view of someone getting sick. There was a lot of that in the couple days we were up there. Also due to the complete lack of snow/water (Sr. Reyes told us it hadn't rained/snowed in Tlachichuca since early October) we were kind of stuck at 14k. The Jamapa Glacier didn't start until 16.5k, far too high for us to be able to camp at without a longer acclimatization period. So with our 30 L water reserve brought up to 14k we camped just by the little hut, knowing the 14-->18.5k summit day was going to hurt. Arm brought up a small bottle of champagne to celebrate New Years but we both fell asleep by 10 pm. I awoke a little after midnight and enjoyed the fireworks going off some 6000 feet below us in the small villages around Orizaba. I felt pretty good the next day with a nearly normal resting heart rate at 14k. Arm had some stomach issues, probably stemming from a questionable breakfast in Amecameca 2 days before so I set out to scout out the route in daylight. The route follows an old aqueduct briefly before it disappears from getting obliterated by rockfall as you ascend a steep and loose 800 foot pile of rocks. At 14.8k the route mellows and climbs gently to the Labryinthe at 15.6k, a justifiably named maze of rock and ice. After one quick look at the boilerplate ice I figured climbing it once in the middle of the night would be enough for me and headed down after stashing my climbing gear at the entrance. Arm and I overslept a bit but were the first ones heading up the route that night at about 2 am. After a little while Arm indicated he wasn't feeling 100% and was going to head down. 3 others were making an attempt that night so I continued on with them through the Labyrinth. We were able to weave through the ice staying on rock for most of the way. I was pleasantly surprised with the Jamapa Glacier, it wasn't nearly as hard as we had prepared ourselves for based on beta from locals we ran into on Ixta--but a fall coupled with a dropped axe would have been bad news since the runout doesn't mellow until the scree fields at the edge of the glacier. The 2000 foot climb from the start of the glacier at 16.5k to the crater rim (18.5k) took nearly 3 hours. The sights were incredible with a solid undercast making for some great eye candy. I snapped a few pics and took a short video as I topped out on the glacier for the short walk on dirt to the summit. The climb down was uneventful, except having a bit of a tough time descending the Labryinthe where seemingly every turn was blind into a steep icy pitch. We spent the better part of an hour and a half getting way off route but once below the ice it was straightforward to sideslope back to the 'trail' at 15.6k. We had a hearty dinner that night down in Tlachichuca with some cervezas, tequila, and red wine to celebrate with a trio of Americans that did an acclimatization hike up near the little hut on Orizaba. All in all it was a great trip! A new challenge for us was the dryness of Mexico. No water on the route until the edge of the glacier at 16.5k definitely limits your mobility. Tlachichuca nativity scene Orizaba 14k basecamp Labyrinth scrambling dawn on the Jamapa Glacier high on the Jamapa Glacier. A pair of climbers about to reach the crater rim hooray, headache! mellow Jamapa Glacier Gear Notes: Just crampons and axe. We didn't spot any cracks on the direct route to the summit so we could have left the pickets, rope, and harness at home.

What a fun, mellow climb! But darn was it hot, I was quite jealous of your call on shorts. The only negative was the DOHAD (destroyer of hopes and dreams) that snagged my treated bottle of water for the descent. Thanks for a fun climb!

My partner is ditching me for work on thursday after we wrap up a kautz/dc carryover. I have tentative plans to climb with another on Sunday/monday up in the ncascades so I'm looking for a partner for a fun, possibly moderately challenging climb. Buckner, glacier, or shuksan come to mind but I'm open to other climbs too. We did adams glacier last weekend which was a blast. I've also done the dc up rainier, baker, hood, and orizaba down south. Shoot me an email if interested! Pcushing21 at yahoo dot com pat

I'm a left-coast wannabe (read: stuck in the northeast) and am going to be out in the area for a couple weeks of climbing. My partner is tied up this weekend and Monday (7/13-7/15) so I was hoping to find someone to climb with on the eastern approach for Eldorado. I'd prefer a single day climb but am not opposed to a more leisurely 2 day approach. I'd prefer a partner with some glacier experience. My climbing resume includes climbs of Baker, Adams, Hood, Rainier, Orizaba, and lots of winter hiking in New England. Reply here, PM, or shoot me an email at pcushing21 at yahoo dot com and we can touch base. Pat

sorry i didnt make it up there with that satutday looking like crap and a flight on sunday so i played on rainier sun afternoon instead. goodluck!

bump... formulating a plan b of 1 or 2 day eldorado climb this friday - sun 6/8-10 (plan a is emmons but looks doubtful) can climb based on your schedule. cascade river road (s approach) is clear to mile marker 21 so it should be doable in a day. fast hiker but i'm happy to climb at your pace. have done rainier, baker, hood, adams. should be a blast! drop a line if interested

http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/pg/weather looks like there may be a weather window by midweek, wed/thurs maybe? any takers?