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diepj

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Posts posted by diepj


  1. No beta on the cool routes but took a romp up the old chute on Saturday.  Conditions were good on the mazama chute (right hand) variation.

    Mainly posting to politely ask that people not climb these routes roped up without pro. I thought we were past the age of shenanigans like that but apparently not.


  2. 22 minutes ago, Artem Vasilyev said:

    Was the schrund exposed under the old chute on the South side? If so, how exposed was it - and would you expect a snow bridge over it with the incoming snow? I am planning to use it as a descent from either Cooper Spur or Reid Headwall next week, and wanted to get an idea as to the risk involved (or if I should descend Cooper Spur instead). 

    I am not aware of a bergschrund  forming beneath the old chute so you shouldn't have issues descending there. One almost surely extends under the Pearly Gates right now and might be easy to cross or end run but I'd avoid a downclimb of that if you haven't looked or don't get a report.

    There is likely an open 'schrund at the head of the Reid right now, as well as other open cracks. If you go up the Reid post a TR, I'd love to see what it looks like this early. 


  3. I love FF gear and own some. The quality and customer service is absolute tops. I got an expedition bag from them when I wanted no compromises.

    With that said I will second DPS on the stoic bags.  I picked up and somnus 30 and a somnus 15 super cheap from backcountry and/or steep and cheap.  Can't remember the cost but I can guarantee I am in to both of them a lot less than any FF bag.  They wouldn't stand up to 20+ years of 30 days a year but I don't get out that much.  I've been using them for 5+ years and I'll get some more out of them.  The 30, which I have used the most, might not be lofting quite like it was at first but probably I just need to wash and tumble it.

    The 30 is almost nothing and great in the summer.  The 15 also very light and good for spring and fall. I run relatively warm and wear clothes and have even used the 15 in winter but wouldn't make a broad recommendation for that. These bags have half length center zippers on top so you can't vent them as easily as a bag with a longer side zip.  For that reason I would not recommend the 15 for a do everything bag as it is easy to run too hot in it.


  4. I'm having the same problem on my desktop. At first I thought either 1 of 2 terrible things happened.  Either the site was dead or my work decided to block it.  Then I loaded it on my phone and thought it must be the latter.

    Turns out if I google cascade climbers forum it will load through the google link.


  5. Trip: Mt Hood - Pearly Gates - Left

    Trip Date: 01/13/2019

    Trip Report:

    Just a quick conditions update for Mt Hood.

     

    Took the left option in Pearly gates and found a short step of ice, maybe 5-6 feet. Followed by maybe 10 meters of low angle ice. It is in great conditions for those comfortable on water ice.

    Downclimbed the mazama chute. All the old chute routes are in and straightforward steep snow climbing.

    Saw several parties heading up DKHW and am interested to hear a conditions report there.  Based on the ice in the gates I expect the headwall to be in shape with good ice.

    My 17th and first solo Hood. Well, except for the rest of the hoard. B|

     

    The hourglass:

    \IMG_1698.thumb.JPG.7461e43d8b129e0152b30a629ee0f6c1.JPG

     

    Crappy pic of the step:

    IMG_1701.thumb.JPG.62a8efcee63bea32550e9c0dec302bba.JPG

    Top of the ice:

    IMG_1702.thumb.JPG.adcd468b25fecbfd3c2d6ef2724fe149.JPG

    Summit Pano:

    IMG_1704.thumb.JPG.6127d146fe3f8d65c78f31e84adb2fa3.JPG

    Gear Notes:
    2 tools

    Approach Notes:
    Less painful in the dark.

    • Like 4
    • Snaffled 1

  6. I wasn't here in the heyday. I haven't really been here at all compared to most. I have however seen a similar trajectory with other sites. Based on that experience I don't think the bad actors have much to do with it. That was a struggle pretty much every site went through. Having been a member of other forums that were very heavily moderated to eliminate such behavior I have seen them suffer the same fate. Frankly worse. Most of them are boneyards now with a couple folks trying to hang on. Some of them are completely gone. All of the convo moved to FB. Maybe its left there for IG or twitter now I don't know. Having never gotten on board with the new wave social stuff it has left me behind. And I'm OK with that.

    In the early days the workplace hadn't really matured to deal with internet access. I think there were a lot of people with desk jobs whose work demands hadn't caught up with the increase in productivity afforded by the internet. I.e. it was easy to slack and spend most of the day attending the virtual water cooler.

    Message board forums are really suited to desktop computer use. Mobile forum software just insn't as easy on a phone as a FB thumbs up or a tweet blast. Not to mention assembling a quality TR. So the transition to mobile has also beena big part I think.

    I still appreciate the TR history here and the fact that people still post them up. I hope it can stay alive.

    • Like 2

  7. Cool, thanks for the TR!

    Looks like you may have opted for one of the more interesting top-outs.

    I'm wondering where the "longest and most-committing" characterization came from. One of my favorite aspects of this route is that it's on the easy side of the mountain in terms of approach and descent. With your speed and fitness you certainly made an easy day of it. :rawk:

    No matter how you slice it I think it is one of the best all-around routes on the mountain, glad you had a great time!


  8. I haven't used a heat exchanger pot with XGK or whisperlite.

    What I did was adjust the wind screen foil pretty close. Never A/B tested it but I think it improves efficiency in a similar way.  Excess heat is funneled up the sides of the pot and any breeze or moving air doesn't move heat out away.  Since the burner sits below the pot I think you will still want to use a windscreen regardless.

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