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Marmot Prince

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Posts posted by Marmot Prince

  1. Thanks for the tips. I guess I should also read past threads and such but the market changes quickly so it's great to hear from recent shoppers.

     

    I do think skis would help cover ground better, certainly on the descents. Selection is bad and I'll end up ordering a handful of candidate boots from a place with a bulletproof return policy.

     

    Thanks for the tips I will check this out.

  2. I have slightly wider feet (102mm width at 26-26.5 size)

     

    Can someone recommend a few state of the art ski mountaineering boots? I know only a little about the gear, so context would be greatly appreciated.

     

    I tried to do a little research. It appears dnyafit TLT5 are too narrow at size 26, and I would need ZZERO4 boots if I wanted to buy dynafit, since they are 102mm at size 26. But this is only one brand.

     

    If you don't know too much about width, a list of good brands to search would also be good. Thanks alot for reading.

  3. I was looking to do Mt Shasta this week, but conditions are not ideal in mid week when I want to go.

     

    Other than Mt Whitney, which I have done, what are other mountaineering objectives that are popular? (so there will be conditions information about them and trailhead access in March)

  4. ""I AM EVALUATING ANY CHANCE OF THEIR UTILITY TO HELP IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS. I AM NOT PLANNING TO USE ANY OF THESE ON ANY SORT OF HAZARDOUS TRIP.""

     

    these r conflicting statements, emergencies almost always involve hazards

     

    There is no conflict. These are tools to be used in an contingency, like how car insurance or airbags, or a PLB is used in an emergency.

     

    That is different from using these drugs as part of a plan when no emergency has occurred, ie, climb 4 pitches, take two doses of stimulants, climb 3 more pitches, take more stimulants, etc. You can still be on a hazardous trip where no emergency has occurred.

  5. These single ropes handle great and from the reviews the sheathes are pretty durable. I got a good price on these ropes, so I got a few extra, unused.

     

    These ropes are not bipattern. I have had these ropes stored only for a few weeks. These ropes have remained in their original shipping box, in the original manufacturer plastic. They have not been used, uncoiled or damaged in any way.

     

    Sterling Rope Evolution Velocity 9.8mm Rope 50m DRY (Bicolor Yellow (not bipattern)).

     

    $150 Shipped to CONUS.

     

    http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Sterling-Rope-Evolution-Velocity-9.8mm-Rope_10091149_10208_10000001_-1_

     

    Sterling Fusion Nano Dry Single Rope - 9.2mm 50m DRY (PURPLE)

     

    $140 Shipped to CONUS.

     

    http://www.backcountry.com/sterling-fusion-nano-single-rope-9.2mm-ste0022?

     

    Prices do not include paypal fee, please pay or otherwise eliminate this fee.

  6. Everytime someone asks this question I think of this great TR posted on TetonGravity. Basically a bunch of guys flew into the Ruth & skied a bunch of good lines. At the end of the week no one had gotten hurt so they took all their pain killers. Good times!

     

    This is probably the greatest TR ever. It almost makes this asinine thread worthwhile. I must go to that hut...

     

    Have to agree on this point.

     

    Ok so the experienced posters pretty much confirm my intuition that stimulants don't make any sense. I just wanted to check because this idea sort of comes from a major mountaineering friend of mine a few years ago who used some mild, over the counter stimulants on his girlfriend once on a hike...maybe he was trying to accomplish something else.

  7. I have a doctor who will basically give me any plausible medication I need for activities. I'm writing because I'm obviously circumspect and cautious about using drugs when mountaineering but wondering if they could be used in rare or emergency situations.

     

    I AM EVALUATING ANY CHANCE OF THEIR UTILITY TO HELP IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS. I AM NOT USING SUBSTANCES CASUALLY OR AS A PERFORMANCE ENHANCER.

     

    I bring along aspirin/ibuprofen right now but I'm wondering if more hard core painkillers and stimulants have use up there in the mountains. For example Vicodin helps you sleep along with its painkilling abilities. You could use stimulants to help a team member get out of a bad situation that could be life threatening, for example a major objective hazard such as seracc fall or storm.

     

    Obviously the biggest concern is that if you need to take hardcore meds, you are in a bad position to start and they could aggravate your condition.

     

    I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts or experience about vicodin, dopaminergic stimulants, etc, espiecally if you have medical experience.

  8. I admit I also read that at first as a corpse extraction fee. Maybe it's not an accident that it's worded that way.

     

    Not for you...

     

    Umm, is this spray Feck and Choada?

     

    Well I wouldn't know, Choada is on my ignore list since my 3rd post, until you quote him.

  9. Well guess what I got in the mail? It also came with a handwritten note asking for my autograph and commending me on my mountaineering achievements. Ok fine I made up the last part.

     

    Mr. Prince,

     

    You have been approved for a solo climb of Mount Rainier for the 2012

    season. Your name has been added to the Park's database of those approved

    for soloing in the current year. To speed up your registration, please

    bring this letter with you when you come to register for your climb.

    Approval of your solo application in no way constitutes a recommendation of

    your plan by Mount Rainier National Park or any of its climbing rangers.

     

    Solo climbing in glaciated terrain is inherently dangerous and may result

    in death or serious injury. With this approval you are still required to

    register for your climb and pay the cost-recovery fee previous to your

    climb.

     

    Please print this notification out and bring it to present when you

    register for your climb. If our computer systems are down then this will

    speed up the registration process!

     

    [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLuCfWEZ_hQ&feature=related

     

    I think the lesson we should take away is that anyone can get a permit, (and noone should probably climb solo without training and experience).

  10. Not to call out some that recommend a heavy backpack to Muir, IMO it can train you to go slow, if you take a heavy bp to Muir for training take a bunch of water and give it away up ther and save your knees going down. I have a pack with rope dialed down to around 30 lbs that time of year and wonder why some pack 45-50 to climb the big R. Not recommending this but letting you know ther are other options.

     

    I'd love to know your'e gear / pack breakdown for how you manage a ~30lb pack. I'm by no means an ultralight expert, but I think I do OK, and still came it at around 40+ lbs. Could probably have trimmed a few pounds but 10+ would be a stretch.

     

     

    Very impressive. I have a UL setup and without rope it weighs 25 pounds with 5 days food and 2.3 litres, but my gear is definitely not mountaineering grade.

  11. ...a video demonstrating my rappel techniques:

     

    Damn, that dude is so fuq'n sketched! :shock:

    I couldn't even finish the video, I was so damned shocked with the shit he was trusting his life to.

    A square knot to close the harness!!?? And did you see the "carabiner" he was using? It's little more than a fuq'n hardware store key fob! And the method of how he attached the rope to the bridge? He had a little quicklink tied to the end of what looked like little more than a clothesline, with a 2-inch tail, then threaded back through the quicklink to girth hitch it around the railroad tie! WTF!!!??? After that, I just couldn't watch any more of it... :noway:

     

    That was a nice find, Prince! :laf:

     

    He had some good points, like making sure to point out that the clothesline he was using could hold at least his body weight statically. It was also good that the rotting piece of wood that was his single anchor point had at least 2 rusty nails connecting it to the railroad bridge.

  12. Look guys, it seems like I have had a bad rap for my Rainier proposal. I think working on more eccentric climbing is in my blood and to help you understand, I've gone the extra mile to try to make it up and impress you with a video demonstrating my rappel techniques:

     

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