Marmot Prince

Thanks for the tips. I guess I should also read past threads and such but the market changes quickly so it's great to hear from recent shoppers. I do think skis would help cover ground better, certainly on the descents. Selection is bad and I'll end up ordering a handful of candidate boots from a place with a bulletproof return policy. Thanks for the tips I will check this out.

Also I'm a beginner skier. Basically I want a way of traversing 2rd, 3rd class snow covered terrain without using snowshoes, while at the same time the gear should be able to do some moderately technical mountaineering ascents and descents. Money is not a big problem, weight is the focus.

I have slightly wider feet (102mm width at 26-26.5 size) Can someone recommend a few state of the art ski mountaineering boots? I know only a little about the gear, so context would be greatly appreciated. I tried to do a little research. It appears dnyafit TLT5 are too narrow at size 26, and I would need ZZERO4 boots if I wanted to buy dynafit, since they are 102mm at size 26. But this is only one brand. If you don't know too much about width, a list of good brands to search would also be good. Thanks alot for reading.

I was looking to do Mt Shasta this week, but conditions are not ideal in mid week when I want to go. Other than Mt Whitney, which I have done, what are other mountaineering objectives that are popular? (so there will be conditions information about them and trailhead access in March)

Not sure about that. Yep, among the mountaineers you see alot of engineers, doctors, etc. But among the doctors you see alot less % of mountaineers.

I've changed the wording. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

I don't think this is a controversial or argumentative subject. I am not seeking peoples approval of medication and I don't have any opinion, negative or positive. I do seek medical opinions about medicines. There are just very few doctors who mountaineer and it is useful to hear what people here bring to use.

There is no conflict. These are tools to be used in an contingency, like how car insurance or airbags, or a PLB is used in an emergency. That is different from using these drugs as part of a plan when no emergency has occurred, ie, climb 4 pitches, take two doses of stimulants, climb 3 more pitches, take more stimulants, etc. You can still be on a hazardous trip where no emergency has occurred.

This is probably the greatest TR ever. It almost makes this asinine thread worthwhile. I must go to that hut... Have to agree on this point. Ok so the experienced posters pretty much confirm my intuition that stimulants don't make any sense. I just wanted to check because this idea sort of comes from a major mountaineering friend of mine a few years ago who used some mild, over the counter stimulants on his girlfriend once on a hike...maybe he was trying to accomplish something else.

I have a doctor who will basically give me any plausible medication I need for activities. I'm writing because I'm obviously circumspect and cautious about using drugs when mountaineering but wondering if they could be used in rare or emergency situations. I AM EVALUATING ANY CHANCE OF THEIR UTILITY TO HELP IN EMERGENCY SITUATIONS. I AM NOT USING SUBSTANCES CASUALLY OR AS A PERFORMANCE ENHANCER. I bring along aspirin/ibuprofen right now but I'm wondering if more hard core painkillers and stimulants have use up there in the mountains. For example Vicodin helps you sleep along with its painkilling abilities. You could use stimulants to help a team member get out of a bad situation that could be life threatening, for example a major objective hazard such as seracc fall or storm. Obviously the biggest concern is that if you need to take hardcore meds, you are in a bad position to start and they could aggravate your condition. I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts or experience about vicodin, dopaminergic stimulants, etc, espiecally if you have medical experience.

Not for you... Umm, is this spray Feck and Choada? Well I wouldn't know, Choada is on my ignore list since my 3rd post, until you quote him.

I admit I also read that at first as a corpse extraction fee. Maybe it's not an accident that it's worded that way.

Well guess what I got in the mail? It also came with a handwritten note asking for my autograph and commending me on my mountaineering achievements. Ok fine I made up the last part. Mr. Prince, You have been approved for a solo climb of Mount Rainier for the 2012 season. Your name has been added to the Park's database of those approved for soloing in the current year. To speed up your registration, please bring this letter with you when you come to register for your climb. Approval of your solo application in no way constitutes a recommendation of your plan by Mount Rainier National Park or any of its climbing rangers. Solo climbing in glaciated terrain is inherently dangerous and may result in death or serious injury. With this approval you are still required to register for your climb and pay the cost-recovery fee previous to your climb. Please print this notification out and bring it to present when you register for your climb. If our computer systems are down then this will speed up the registration process! [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLuCfWEZ_hQ&feature=related I think the lesson we should take away is that anyone can get a permit, (and noone should probably climb solo without training and experience).

[video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3K0i-QeFTiw

I'd love to know your'e gear / pack breakdown for how you manage a ~30lb pack. I'm by no means an ultralight expert, but I think I do OK, and still came it at around 40+ lbs. Could probably have trimmed a few pounds but 10+ would be a stretch. Very impressive. I have a UL setup and without rope it weighs 25 pounds with 5 days food and 2.3 litres, but my gear is definitely not mountaineering grade.