Flatlandclimber

ok I'll discuss moving the trip to july with my climbing partner. One other question that popped up - when we set up camp at Muir or Ingraham, can we leave our tents there securely when we make our summit bid? Will anyone bother it or will it be okay until we come back down to break camp?

thanks everyone, helpful stuff. My itinerary looked more like that originally, but my climbing partner preferred hotel before and after. The hotel towards the tail end is tentative. We won't be making reservations in case we need a bad weather day. If the weather window is good though, we will be in the hotel the night before to shower and rest before flying for 12+ hours the next day.

Hey all - Climbing Rainier via DC in June of next year. Plane tickets are purchased, I'll post the itinerary, I was hoping anyone familiar with Rainier could give me some info and pointers. We are traveling as a 2 man rope team. June 17th - fly from Boston to Seattle, hotel for one night. June 18th - take the rental van to get fuel for the stove, recheck gear for the climb, drive to trailhead to sleep in car. June 19th - wake up early, check in at ranger station (we're getting permits in advance), start slog to Muir. Camp at Muir. June 20th - 12 am start, summit, back down to hotel June 21st - reorganize gear, rest, eat, drink beer, stay in hotel June 22nd - fly back to boston Here's my questions - 1. What good/cheap motels to stay in near the airport? Looking for $50-$100 a night, wifi, clean rooms. 2. Where should we buy the fuel for the stove? 3. We are experienced in the east with climbing, ice climbing, hiking, cold weather, storms, crevasse rescue, and rope team glacier travel, but we don't have avalanche beacons. Where can we rent them? 4. Any restrictions to sleeping in our car the night before? 5. Any other tips or pointers are welcome!

theoak - please let me know how it went if you did go - this is the plan i have for myself and 2 other climbers next june-ish. I also have taken courses and done winter hiking/climbing in the White Mountains

thanks Sobo and all for the excellent advice. I will head to Adams slightly later than planned for, and go in late June. Since the South Route is more straight forward, I might make a plan to do a two'fer and do Hood as well. I need to do some research on Hood and it's location relative to Adams. You mentioned, Sobo, that the south side of hood is the standard, safest way of climbing it with no crevasses, so I will look into that more. thanks again!!!

no crevasse rescue, yes roping up. mazama glacier is right next to south route isn't it? Would that be easier so if the crevasses were very opened up I could always traverse to the south route instead?

eesh, rainier seems like a different league, but I could be wrong. Plus it seems so hyped up and so over crowded, I don't know if I want to do that right away. I considered it, but didn't know if I should do it without a guide, and I don't have the money to spend on the trip AND a guide. So I digress...if you're suggesting Rainier, maybe the Adams glacier will be within my reach?

one more note, I think it's funny how much our perceptions and experiences have changed since long ago. the pioneers in the himalaya would trek hundreds of miles over rough and difficult terrain before even reaching the start of their treacherous climb. now-a-days we warn weary travelers of a 10 mile approach hike. lol...just sayin...

thanks for the replies guys. I don't want to sound like a total noob. I've gone to the east coast and saw some gnarly shit on Mt washinton in New Hampshire, and climbed up Tuckerman's ravine. I also have experience with ice screws, roping together with other climbers, belaying, and more. They were all under instruction or with more experienced climbers. This will be my first attempt at putting those learned skills to work for myself. I will be with at least 1 partner, if not 2. On the north cleaver, I would feel more comfortable climbing it if the rocks were covered with a decent amount of snow and ice to prevent more rock falls and slides. That's why I'm maybe choosing spring for more winter conditions. Is it covered during that time of the year? Also I'm taking a week for this, so I'd plan on at least 3 nights out and don't mind the haul in.

I am new to the cascades and will be heading there in the spring of 2012 to climb Mt Adams. I purchased a book on Mt Adams by the A Falcon Guide. I don't know which route to climb. I am debating between South Route, North Cleaver, or Mazama Glacier. I don't think I spelled the glacier right. I am from the mid west where there are no mountains, but I climb occassionally and have mountaineering experience with crampons, ice axe, ropes, etc. The south route seems boring, but I don't want to get in over my head on the north cleaver. Is there ever ice and snow covering the rock falls? Help me make this choice please.