Loomis
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Posts posted by Loomis
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Great pictures. Looks like you had a beautiful day. Definitely better than working.
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Water, I appreciate you sending us your version but you may have misrepresented PMR, how PMR members feels should come from PMR not hearsay from subject, sorry. Most of us have never needed to be rescued.
Water was quoting Jeff's story from facebook I believe.
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He is changing his profile pic to not look like a 40 year old boy scout.
I agree. That was a shitty profile picture for CC. It was a pose with my wife for a photo Christmas card several years back on Boy Scout Ridge.
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Into the whiteout. . .
That's a good one.
It's actually worse. I had to work. It always gets in the way.
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Last spring I was in that exact same spot with 5 people. 2 had GPS, 1 had a compass and 1 person had done the route multiple times. Yet despite all of the above my partner skied right off a cornice at more or less the same spot where that guy died. The only difference is we were roped up so after 2 hours of trying to remember how to build a z-pulley we continued on our way. Climbers pretty much repeat the same mistakes over and over again. Sooner or later you'll fuck up too so ease off on the tough guy talk.
Very true wfinley. Skiing is a whole different animal. I am not confident enough in my abilities to ski down in whiteout conditions so kudos to all those who do. And your right, some day I will fuck up (I always do) and down the road chances are I'll probably die doing what I love.
By the way great photography on your website.
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What makes you think I'm a guy?
I was using the term generically. My apologies.
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Loomis, you clearly speak from experience and great wisdom. What have you: 6, 9, 20 years of experience climbing the peaks? And now that you have established a platform from which to extol your alpinist virtues upon the rest of us, please do tell. What ARE the rules and methods of navigation by which the rest of us must abide in order to meet your base level of standards and instincts? How have you also managed to maintain contact with this young man who hunkered down overnight in 40 mph winds in sub-freezing temps? For as you speak, it appears you have direct knowledge of this climber's experience, gear list, mindset, and objectives. Were you there on the mountain by his side? Have you ever watched your compass freeze over and become virtually unreadable in pitch black sub-freezing conditions as your fingers numbed and panic set in like concrete drying on a hot summer day knowing that any move could be the last so you dig a cave, eat some power bars, and remind yourself that tomorrow will be a better day? Is that your experience, sir? But let me remind you that while you write this diatribe drivel about a superior climber you sit in a warm room filing digital bullshit based on your obviously long-term experience as a climber. Let me guess, you've summited a few peaks in the northwest and now you're what? What you are is the fucking man!
I like this reply. This guy set up a new CC alias just to post this.
I don't remember saying I was a superior climber, but I eluded to being a better navigator. You are correct that I do not know all the details of this incident, but if you do, please tell. We are talking about South side Mt Hood here. Besides an injury I see no reason one should get lost to the point of needing rescue on this route. Delayed sure, but lost, no.
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Textbook example of GPS and compass yet still screwing up.
Good point, but that's like comparing apples to oranges. We are talking South side Mt Hood here and 2012.
On unfamiliar terrain, I'd be less likely to proceed much further if conditions rapidly deteriorated without signs of improvement. But I would also be relying on a modern day GPS with detailed topo maps and a plot of my route that I could follow back if needed.
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Reading a compass or gps in foul weather is possible but not without risk. Especially in terrain where veering slightly offroute could prove fatal. So when someone gets caught out in a storm ease up on the "if only he could read a compass" BS.
As for never going out except in good weather... maybe you can do that in Portland but you can't do that anywhere north of you.
Success in navigating during poor weather (or any time) has to do with ones general knowledge and familiarity with an area. In this particular case it is fairly common knowledge that when heading down from the hogsback if you follow due South on a magnetic compass you will get back down to Timberline. I have personally done this solo in a total whiteout (I could barely see my feet). When I climb in foul weather, I prepare for it. Relying on a single navigational aid is never smart either. Personally I carry a GPS with detailed mapping software and plotted route, spare battery for GPS, magnetic compass, and altimeter with digital compass. I never want to get lost and therefore I prepare accordingly.
I go out in poor weather all the time. We don't really have a choice in the Pacific Northwest. That just makes being prepared all the more important.
I love the "here we go again" comment made by the guy who started the thread.My initial comment was made out of frustration. I get tired of people getting lost when a little more preparation would have likely made the outcome much different. It's not rocket science, just common sense. The same day I went up to the hogsback for the first time (total whiteout on decent) on Hood there was a guy that became lost and had to be rescued. The culprit was ill preparedness. It gives climbing a bad rep. The general public often incorrectly thinks it costs a small fortune for the rescue and resent climbers as a result.
What makes you other guys so sure that this guy can't read a compass, anyway? Check out the guy's Facebook pictures and see some of the places he's been (not just to climb). Seems unlikely that an individual with as much outdoor experience as he has can't read a compass... Maybe it was the one piece of gear that he honestly forgot to bring and forgetting it taught him a very valuable lesson - and nearly could have taught him a final lesson. He was lucky, yes, but none of that is indicitive of him not having the ability to read a compass. Lighten up, guys... He's gonna get enough flak as it is for this. We were all likely once at his level - some here on cc still are - so let his experience be an example to everyone.As sad as it is, it is very common for experienced outdoors people to not know how to really use a compass. But in this case who knows. It really doesn't matter as long as you have some type of navigation aid that you do know how to use. I personally rely on a GPS and only use a compass as a fallback. A big lesson here, is always have a backup. This is Oregon in winter. Chances are the weather will be shitty. If you go out, have a plan to get back.
So how many of you smart folks have actually navigated a whiteout with simply a compass? How many times solo? It's not as easy as you might think. I have never done it solo (thank God) but have done it twice, hard work!Plenty of climbers do this. I have done it solo. I prefer a GPS. There are also plenty of much better climbers than me that are familiar enough with an area they are able to navigate whiteout conditions without the aid of a compass or GPS, but I am sure they carry one, or the other, or both.
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Anyone who says "all you need is a compass" should try spending a night in a lenticular.
Not sure WTF that means but I've never had to spend an unplanned night in a lenticular. Might have something to do with me knowing how to read a compass.
Hope rescuers get him down.
Same here. Knowing how to use navigational aids is what makes them valuable. I have climbed down Hood in whiteout conditions with the help of a compass.
In any case I am glad he is safe.
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Great photos. Looks like it was a gorgeous day.
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Here we go again...
http://www.kgw.com/news/Search-on-for-climber-lost-in-whiteout-on-Mt-Hood-181284661.html
I am amazed how time and time again climbers go out on Mt Hood's south route knowing full well what the weather is going to do (or can do) without being prepared to climb down in a whiteout. A simple magnetic compass is all that is needed to get down. A GPS is awesome too. Having both is ideal. There is no excuse to get lost on the south route unless you are hurt. I hope this gentleman makes it and learns a lesson in navigation during poor weather.
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I have a pair of La Sportiva Batura EVO mountaineering boots for sale. They are size 45 (approximately US 11-1/2). They are lightly used for one season in fantastic condition. These are very warm boots and great for ice climbing and winter climbing in the Cascades. They are $550 new so I am selling for $400.
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The MSR Lightning Ascent snowshoes are my favorite. They are worth the money in my opinion, and you might find them on sale or used on CL. They are light, comfortable, easy to pack, and most importantly climb well. I have used them on Mt Hood to the Hogsback.
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heres from today
Thanks for posting my picture Matt. I have a couple more from my trip report on my hike to the Cooper Spur stone shelter on Tuesday. Tilly Jane/Cooper Spur hike TR.
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Trip: Mt Hood - South Route
Date: 11/5/2012
Trip Report:
I attempted a solo climb of Hood via the South route on Monday. I had the whole mountain to myself. There was very little snow until above the Palmer lift. It was in the upper 40's all day and windy until about noon.
The snow up high is unstable, so I turned around at the bergschrund. There was lots of evidence of recent loose snow avalanches in the Old Chute and Devil's Kitchen Headwall. It might have been okay, but not worth the risk in my book.
Hopefully the cold front coming in will stabilize things a bit.
More pictures on my blog here.
Approach Notes:
Mostly dirt until above Palmer.
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I was with 'Water' on Middle Sister last weekend. You can see some pictures of the conditions on my blog:
Also, here is a link to my trip up South Sister last year in July. There was a lot more snow last year, but I would imagine the conditions right now might be similar, but probably with a bit more snow.
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My wife and I went hiking to Pamelia Lake and Grizzly Peak on Saturday, so I could see how Mt Jefferson is looking. The weather was gorgeous. The trail to the lake had snow the last mile, but the trail was obvious. It wont last long as it was only about a foot deep. There was no snow along the lake shore. There is still tons of snow on the Grizzly Peak trail above about 4,600'. Jefferson still has lots of rime ice up high.
More pictures and full report on my blog, Loomis Adventures.
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What do you mean by minor repairs?
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sweet... i'm going as soon as we finish this job, if weather holds... see anyone else out there?
I was the only climber on Sunday. What a treat on the usually busy South side.
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Trip: Mount Hood - South Route, Old Chute
Date: 10/16/2011
Trip Report:
I had a successful solo climb up the South side of Mount Hood on Sunday. The snow was great and there was no evidence of rock fall around the old chute. There appeared to be a couple feet of new snow on the upper parts of the mountain and the summit ridge was completely covered in snow and ice. Thanks to a couple freeze/thaw cycles, the snow was frozen solid most the day. Check out my full report and pictures on my blog.
[img:center]http://loomisadventures.com/sites/default/files/images/blog/mt-hood-07-large-10.16.11.jpg[/img]
[img:center]http://loomisadventures.com/sites/default/files/images/blog/mt-hood-12-large-10.16.11.jpg[/img]
Gear Notes:
Used snowshoes, crampons, and one mountaineering ice axe (but snowshoes were not necessary).
Approach Notes:
Only patchy frozen snow until above Palmer lift where it became all frozen snow.
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I am looking for a spare climbing helmet. Maybe a Petzl Elios or Black Diamond Half Dome. Thanks.
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I am looking for a good used pair of either Black Diamond Sabretooth or Grivel G12 crampons. I would prefer the stainless steel version of the Sabretooths. I prefer the pro full step-in binding, but am flexible. G12s with GSB bindings would work also. Thanks.
Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood
in Climber's Board
Posted
I think some degree of error is inevitable, but that is where skill in using navigational aids like a GPS really come into play. I have been in whiteout conditions solo before and rely on backtracking my recorded GPS track. I can usually stay within 50-100 feet of my track depending on how careful I am and how often I check my GPS. This has worked great for me on the South side of Mt Hood, but may not in places where the difference of a few feet can be fatal.