cascadazepam
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Posts posted by cascadazepam
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I'm looking for cragging/alpine partners for weekends this summer. I live just north of Seattle and prefer Index or Exit 32/38, although Leavenworth is fun in cooler temps. I'm also an avid alpine climber (weekend warrior) and am looking to spend some time this summer climbing objectives in the N cascades. I lead up to 5.10 and follow 5.11 and have 8 years of rock and alpine climbing experience around the cascades and alps. Either reply to this or email sam underscore lien at hotmail dot com
-Sam
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Anyone want to do a 4-day trip over labor day weekend? Pickets or Roger's Pass trip have been on my to-do list for years but I'm open to ideas. I lead up to 5.10 and follow 5.11 and have 8 years of alpine climbing experience around the cascades and alps. Either reply to this or email at sam underscore lien at hotmail dot com
-Sam
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EVERYTHING SOLD
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Bump for boots still available and new price
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Bump again for price drop on the boots
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bump for price drop on the boots
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Fall closet cleaning, see pics below. PM me with interest. I live in the greater Seattle area and would be happy to meet up for a sale, otherwise buyer pays shipping within US or Canada. Thanks!
Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTX boots, size 42. Excellent condition, minimal to no sole wear. Worn 5-6 times - $200
Arcteryx Venta MX Jacket - SOLD
Mountain Hardware Dry.Q Elite hardshell jacket - SOLD
Mountain Hardware Dry.Q Elite soft-shell ski pants - SOLD
Black Diamond Super Rambla gloves - SOLD
Set of assorted BD stoppers - SOLD
MSR pocket rocket stove with titan mug - SOLD
BD Couloir harness - SOLD
Camp USA Alp 95 harness - SOLD
Mammut 9.5mm 70m single rope, no dry treatment - SOLD
Black Diamond Contact Clip crampons - SOLD
GoPro Hero 3+ - SOLD
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We were able to avoid snow until the last 100-150 vertical feet below the toe of the buttress. We had light crampons and axes, which we used for this section. An axe was probably not entirely necessary, but we were glad we had the pointy bits on our feet.
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Direct North Buttress - Bear Mountain
Dates: 8/11 - 8/13
Synopsis:
Incredible route on a huge face in a remote, rugged, classic NW setting made for a trip of a lifetime.
Approach:
From the parking area at the end of the Chilliwack lake road, the first 1.5 or so miles follows an overgrown road. From there, the trail slowly deteriorates over the course of a couple miles until it becomes essentially non-existent just before the border, and bushwacking beyond this point is a slow, futile study of marshes and sharp, pointy botany. On the way in we spent hours searching for markers in vain trying to stay on the "trail." On the way out we waded through a steamy salmon orgy from the outlet of bear creek until we were within 500 yards of Chilliwack lake. For future parties approaching this route, we would STRONGLY recommend not even bothering with the trail. Instead, once you're about a half kilometer beyond the south end of the lake simply take your pants off and wade the rest of the way to the Bear Creek camp. This might not be as easy earlier in the summer, and water shoes (stashed at bear creek camp) would have been very nice. Once at bear creek camp, there is a nice trail for the first 500 ft or so of elevation gain up the ridge. After the trail ends, it's another 1000 feet or so up nice old growth before waging battle with 500-750 feet of elevation gain through thick 3rd-4th class slide alder. I began questioning my life choices near the top of this, Eric kept his composure. Once above this it's straightforward to the notch at the base of the W ridge of Bear. We bivied 100 ft or so below the notch and found a stream just below our camp for water.
Route:
We climbed 6 pitches and a short simul block to the snow patch (the 10a pitch was Eric's self-proclaimed proudest lead yet in the mountains). Another 2 pitches above the patch brought us to the point where the 1967 Beckey route traverses in. The Beckey bypass that joins the route at this point looked fun if your idea of fun is dodging rockfall and scrambling up unprotectable 4th class ramps covered in scree. Another 2 pitches brought us to the offwidth. We climbed 15 feet up the chimney at its base before bailing right onto easier terrain. Another 3 pitches above this along the ridge crest took us to the top of the buttress. A quick traverse below the summit pyramid and a fun ridge scramble brought us to the summit with 1.5 hours of daylight to spare. World class views from the summit and making it back to camp with 20 minutes of daylight to spare capped off one of my most memorable days in the mountains yet. Base of the route to summit took us about 11.5 hours.
Gear:
Double rack from 0.5-3 camalot, a single #4, a single 0.4, and blue to red Totem basic cams. Small set of nuts. #4 came in handy enough to justify its weight. 60m single rope. Water shoes, mosquito hats, gloves for the devil's club and alder, napalm, and a lack of interest in self-preservation are not necessary but recommended.
Eric expressing his feelings for devil's club
Bear Mountain summit in the distance
Eric on the 5.alder approach pitch, wondering why he moved from Washington to Massachusetts a few years back
The route coming into the sun (we chose to save weight by not taking sunglasses or sunscreen up the route. We chose poorly)
Eric on the lower crux pitch
Eric on the pitch above the snow patch
World-class belay stance
Sam on a pitch high on the buttress
How could you not be smiling in a place like this
Summit!!!
Eric becoming the first person to ever LEAVE the United States by wading across a river
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How did the hooped hilleberg tent do up there? I've heard that snow can accumulate on the roof of tents built in that style, causing them to sag and potentially break. Was that an issue?
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I've been interested in doing Denali for many years, but am finally in a position to take the time off that this trip would require. Ideally, the goal would be the West Buttress route with perhaps some shorter, more technical ascents around the vicinity of the West Butt route if time/conditions permit. I'll be bringing skis as high as possible (hopefully to the summit!). Looking for 1 or 2 motivated partners to start climbing/skiing with around the cascades this year in preparation for Denali next Spring. I'm in the greater Seattle area - PM me if you're interested.
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Bump for price drop
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Looking for someone who would want to get on an iced/mixed route up high this weekend (11/28-29). I was thinking something on Colfax, Colchuck, Argonaut (great recent TR from NE couloir), or N face of Hood. I'd be down for a big day c2c or an overnighter somewhere if the route dictates. PM me if you're interested.
-Sam
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Bump for the weekend
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Bump for price drop on the draws
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Everything SOLD
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Anyone interested in getting on the SGC route on Stuart this weekend? I would prefer a car-to-car go at the thing, but would be down for camping on the N side Saturday night for an early start Sunday. I'd also be down for just about anything with the same flavor as SGC, so let me know if you're dying to do something else.
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I've been looking for someone to head up the SGC with this weekend. I'll text/call tomorrow.
SOLD: BD Venom, MH Phantom 0 sleeping bag
in The Yard Sale
Posted · Edited by cascadazepam
SOLD