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downey

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Posts posted by downey

    weekday squamish multipitch or cragging

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I have the next 2 weeks off work and am looking for weekday squamish partners. Ideal partner would keen on early starts and psyched for getting milage on 5.10 multipitch.

     

    I've hardly rock climbed since October so my tendons ligaments and technique will need some breaking in. Pretty easy to please so long as you know how to build a bomber anchor and belay and don't take yourself too seriously.

     

    glove recommendation for ice/alpine

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Hey Folks,

     

    My original Outdoor Research Alibi and Alpine Alibi gloves were great (climbed well and nearly indestructible) but I'm not impressed by the new Pittards Oiltac Leather after destroying my Alibi's in less than 5 days in the rockies.

     

    I'm interested in what folks are using and abusing out there. I understand that even the best glove will be destroyed by handling ropes eventually, but I don't think it's too much to ask for a glove to last more than 5 days of climbing / rappelling.

     

    Specifically, I need a lightweight tech glove and midweight insulated ice glove; i'm very happy with my heavy duty belay glove (BD guide).

     

    Thanks,

    Braden

     

     

    [TR] Buck Mountain - North Face - Wild Game 2/22/2015

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    No TR for the Polish Route. In short, we caught it in really good shape but it still proved to be a full-value shakedown for me.

     

    As far as keeping the stoke alive, Wayne, here's my take..

     

    After taking some time away from climbing stuff like this I've come to realize that climbing certainly isn't all there is to life; however, adventure, spending time with friends, physical and psychological challenge, being awed by wild places, and especially the perspective an intense experience like Wild Game can shed on ones life are certainly great reasons to get after it. Taking time to think hard about why I climb has been the best thing I've ever done for my stoke. If that doesn't do it for ya, watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjRGHGV_MVI

     

    SOLD

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I'm selling my Super Pluma Jacket, green, medium, originally purchased on Steep and Cheap for 239.99 - selling for $150 (includes shipping).

     

    SOLD

     

     

     

    FS: MSR Fury Tent

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I have a MSR Fury 4 season tent used on only a few adventures. It's essentially brand new. Considering that it was voted "best buy" on outdoor gear lab, and I'm selling it for $180 less than Amazon, it's a pretty damn good deal (price firm) for a bomber 4 season tent.

     

    I'm selling because I need the $ more than this tent - broke my wrist and can't work.

     

    http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/4-Season-Tent-Reviews/MSR-Fury

    *my fury has tube sleeves, not clips shown here. With a little practice, I figured out how to set this thing up in a flash.

     

    amazon price: $550

    my price, shipped USPS with tracking: $370

     

    first payment to go through gets dibs.

     

    Thanks for looking,

    Braden

     

     

     

     

     

    [TR] Ruth, Tokositna, Kahiltna - various 5/6/2013

    in Alaska

    Posted · Edited by downey

    Trip: Ruth, Tokositna, Kahiltna - various

     

    Date: 5/6/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    My buddy Will and I spent about a month in the Central Alaska Range where we attempted Dickey, climbed Johnson and Huntington and then attempted Hunter twice. I'm sorry I don't feel up to writing a TR but here's video I hope will get you all psyched to get out and get after it!

     

     

    Definitely a place I would like to visit again. So much good climbing. No post holing through slide alder on the approaches!! Little delaminated ice! Beautiful granite mixed!!! Forget your headlamp? - worry not! the sun hardly ever sets! Am I in heaven??? Oh yes - the quality of the climbing there is high!.. the kind of alpine climbing i've been looking for for years... sigh.

     

    Any questions about any of the routes, feel free to shoot me a message.

     

     

    [TR] Snoqualmie - Pineapple Express 1/14/2013

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Trip: Snoqualmie - Pineapple Express

     

    Date: 1/14/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Climbed Pineapple Express last Saturday with my buddy Will. FUN ALPINE CRAGGING!

     

    CONDITIONS:

    Encountered breakable crust up the phantom slide. Snow conditions around the base of the N Face were very very firm and no flotation was required. On route we found sticker snice down low and more breakable crust over sugar snow higher on the route, which Will plowed through like a rabid beast.

     

    Here's a short bad video.. should give you some idea about conditions though:

     

    ROUTE:

    We solo'd the first couple pitches (snice 3ish). The next pitch was mixed corner (around M6) and protected well allthough it kept my attention for a while. Will took over with the next pitch, which involved a lieback corner (M5ish?) and some tree climbing.. solo'd some more to the point where will free'd the aid crux (5.9+ish?) finish of NYG. I forgot my headlamp and a time consuming slow ski/hike out brought us back to the car.

     

    Thanks for another awesome climb, Will.

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    blue-orange metolius. .5-3C4. a couple long nylon (durable) runners for sharp chock stones. Placed a couple pins. I don't recall placing any stoppers but we brought a set along. We used 70m doubles which was a bit overkill. I think a single 60 would suffice for the bold.

     

    We brought ski's on the approach but I think snowshoes might be the ticket for mediocre skiers like me. MVI_1277.jpg

    Rap wall this weekend?.. Rockies later?

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Hey everyone,

    I have until December free and want to go on a roadtrip inland to find some ice and mixed. Perhaps the Canadian Rockies, Montana, Wyoming, or if schedules don't allow for that maybe some snow covered rock here in the cascades. I'm open to other ideas as well.

     

    If interested, shoot me a message and let's try to go climbing this weekend at the Rap wall (snoqualmie pass area, drytooling m7 to m-flail).

     

    thanks!

    Braden

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