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EthanH

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Posts posted by EthanH

  1. Hey is anyone going to indian creek around thanksgiving (or the week of) and has an extra seat? I am trying to meet and climb with some friends down there.

     

    Thanks!

     

    Please shoot me an email at ethan@mrkpro.com

    or text 360-2ayt seeks - ayt sevn 7 ate

  2. "Vantage? Find some protectable cracks and top-rope the other stuff"

     

    Ha Ha Ha Ha!

     

    In an effort to do just that, I climbed over on the Fugs Wall side. Trapeze wall in particular.

     

    Once over there and climbing in Trad form as to live the proper way, I discovered why no one goes over and uses "protectable" cracks or "top ropes" (from what???). It is because the place is a freaking mess of unstable and pure scary choss.

    I made my way up four Trad climbs on that side, with holds coming off under my feet and absolutely minimal reliable pro.

     

    So yeah go ahead, forget the bolts just go ahead and climb your protectable cracks until the rock blows and then have your buddies scrape your guts off the talus.

     

     

    Dude the trapeze isnt that chossy. It's actually got a couple of very good (short) climbs. So does green wall.

     

    That being said most climbs require some care when climbing to find where the protection/holds are the most solid (even if it's not "bomber")

     

     

  3. The tilted pillars are to the left of the second gully yes.

     

     

    But it sounds as if you are going through the chimney (gully 1) to get there. In that case they would be to the right for a ways (refer to the map + the tiled pillars are obvious and easy to id) To the left of the chimney is the kotick wall Fwiw.

     

     

  4. I was walking up to climb "freak of the week" and as I was walking I heard some buzzing which was coming from what appears to be bee's of some sort thu were on a number of routes all over the wall including many

    In the main middle area of the wall - tons of them on jihad and other popular routes.

     

    Anyone know anything about this? And what should be done?

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