bpesnell

Seems I stirred a bit of controversy with my question, so I think it is only fair that I offer my input as a paying customer. I am 100% comfortable paying a guide without a guarantee of a refund nor would I expect one if the trip were cancelled due to weather...even if it were at the trailhead. Climbing is condition dependent. That is part of the game as with most outdoor activites we all enjoy. You cannot expect the guide or the guide service to not reasonably try to get their clients to the summit...if there is a chance it can be done safely. However, what I would expect is their best assessment of the conditions on the mountain and their judgement as to what to do in any situation given the conditions. Thus, my reason for the question I posted. I read the climbing reports last week and all indicated "dangerously unstable conditions for climbers on the area peaks". That data was easy to find. So, If it had been a guided group ascending above Muir in those conditions, I would have been highly suspect of that guide service. If I fly to Seattle and encounter those conditions and read similar reports, I would expect my guide service to provide me with their best assessment based on the info available. I do, however, think it is prudent of me to know the reports as well so I can question the guide specifically about them. If guide service thinks it would be absolutley safe to get to Muir or aany other location, enjoy the experience, practice some skills, BUT not get to summit...I would be ok with that. Sure it would be disappointing since I planned a trip a year in advance, but it is out of everyone's control....so why do I get a refund?

Being new to this board and climbing, I apologize if this question is inappropriate, but....Was the group caught in Saturday's slide part of a guided trip? I only ask because I am scheduled for two guided trips this summer. I read climbing forecast on Friday that would have definitely kept me off the mountain for the past few days. Would guides normally push clients to climb with the forecast that have been posted for the past few days?

Anyone have a guess as to what the access to the Killen Creek Trailhead will be in about 2 weeks? I have a Adams Glacier climb scheduled for the week of June 20. Forest Service has FS 23 open 1/2 mile north of the junction with FS 90, which seems to still be a good ways from the Killen Creek Trailhead. Mt. Adams climbing report from today was not very promising either. Seems like the snow is still falling hard. What are the chances this route will be accessible in 2 weeks?

Based on the info my guide sent out, we should be prepared to carry a 50#+ pack. we are doing a 4 day Emmons route so we will have a bit more group gear. I would be much happier if I trained heavy and the pack felt lighter on the actual climb. Stadium steps are a great idea too. The Stairmaster I use is like a rotating stair case (not the traditional stairmaster) so it is a bit more similar. We do have the levee here along the Mississippi River, so I thought about walking up and down that for long distances as well. Anyway, I would rather be over-prepared. Outside of the additional cardio with a pack, this routine is not much more than I regularly do so I am not worried about overtraining.

Thanks for the advice. After the Shuksan climb I did invest in some lighter gear and learned a good bit about what to bring and what to leave behind. However, i wanted to train heavy...just in case.

Thanks. In looking at the cost of the altitude tent, I think I will just extend my time periods. My wife already thinks I am crazy for climbing. She would kick me out if I covered our bed in a tent and cut her O2 down to simulate altitude.

What advice would you give to a newbie from Louisiana climbing Rainier this July? The highest spot here is the roof of my house and it does not look like I will be able to make it much higher between now and then. I am currently doing high intensity cardio 4-5 times per week with at least 1-2 of those including inlcine treadmill and/or stairmaster with a 55# pack. Cardio sessions usually last 1 hour and try to do interval work getting to to 75-80% of my HR max during all sessions. I cross train with swimming, biking, running, and tae-kwon-do for my cardio sessions on days without a pack. I plan on increasing the number of cardio workouts with a pack slowily over the next three months. Eventually doing 4-5 (in lieu of other cardio) sessions per week with a loaded pack up to 65#. I am planning to start a longer (3-4 hour) slow hike on area trails on a weekend periodically. I also weight train 3 days per week. Not much I can do here to simulate the altitude, but by May the humidity here will be a bitch. Does anyone have any suggestions that might help? I did complete a 7 day glacier course and Summit on Mt. Shuksan last year and have done a few snow hikes in Colorado, but this will only be my second true alpine climb. I found that my stamina and breathing were ok on Shuksan, I had the most trouble with the approach hike and a 65# pack. My hips and legs were on fire. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Yes, prep for Rainier and a review of skills learned in my glacier course were the main objective. After reading a bit about the choices mentioned, I definitely think Baker is the right one. Eldorado and Fobidden look like long approach hikes followed by shorter glacier travel and more of a rock climb to the summit. I am told Adams may be difficult to reach in early season. Thank you for the feedback.

Any suggestions for a North Cascade climb in May? I am new to the sport and completed my first climb and glacier course on Shuksan last year. I am looking into another guided climb/instruction in May. I have a Rainier trip booked for July and wanted some additional experience. Guide suggestions have been Eldorado, Forbidden, and Baker. Any feedback would be appreciated...specifically conditions to expect in May and what (if any) peaks to avoid in early season.