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Frankazoid

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Posts posted by Frankazoid

  1.  

    In terms of impact, I guess I just see it differently. I think rapping off of a chain anchor is cleaner and has way less impact than hiking down eroding dirt or leaving a nest of slings around a tree or boulder.

     

     

    Dind ding ding. We have a winner. There are MANY routes all over the friggin icicle that deserve a nice bolted anchor. The hillsides are getting so F'kd up from all the damn walkoffs. I think it would be the MOST eco friendly thing to do and would have huge immediate-postitive results for the shrubs and dirt. A great example is the walk off from 8 mile butress. I did the tree route for the first time yesterday and while the climb was excellent, I was definetly not stoked on what my feet were doing to the soil on the way down. It has a slung tree atop the last pitch but would need a bolted anchor atop the 2nd pitch in order to rap the whole route (with a single rope. which is how most folks climb it.) It would all equal to... more climbing in the day (time taken from walk offs), hugely reduced soil erosion and plant detsruction, reduced number of retarded injurys from the walk offs like rolled ankles... shit its a no brainer. anyhow thats just my own opinion. and maybe one or two others.

  2. sorry, I meant specificly.... I would like to trade 2 cams for a pad. They are all in good shape. The tricams are unused. I would be willing to trade all of it for a used condition collossus pad or something like that... For an average sized pad i'd like to trade 2 cams... If that still interests you lemme know. I'll try to load some photos later today.

  3. So....I bought an around the world ticket and spent a year traveling, mostly in Southeast Asia. The dollar was strong and the asian currencies were really low, so I was able to have an amazing trip for about $16,000 for the whole year, including plenty of air travel. I had planned to connect with friends for different parts of the trip but most bailed. They fell into two camps: those with enough money but no time, and those that felt like they couldn't quit their jobs because they didn't have enough money. Traveling alone actually ended up being better because it's easier to meet the locals that way.

     

    $43/day budget is doable, but perhaps unenjoyable allin, in this day in age. Including transport it'll be mostly crappy transport, lodging and not much booze. The worlds changed and places aren't nearly as cheap as they were. And that was before the $ went down the shitter.

     

    STILL WORTH IT! GO! GO NOW!

     

     

    i recently spent two months in southern thailand on $7 a day. i ate plenty, climbed every day and had a motorcycle for my whole trip. i had money to pay boatmen to drop me off at random limestone karsts so i could dws... i networked my ass off the first 2 weeks so i ended up living with locals for free, while helping around the house. being able to speak some thai helped out immensly- i had more dinner offers than i knew what to do with! go.

  4. the west faces are wildly dangerous. ive climbed about 1/3 of the way up on one of the buttresses. i would like to complete a route... theres one big left facing dihedral visable from the road that shoots up to the north fork. thats the line. extremely hazardous though everywhere. ive heard of 2 ascents on the west faces, the last being in 2000. reported as death everywhere. sounds fun huh? nuts-cams to# 3- hand drill.

  5. i was hyped on the footage of the mammut team dwsoloing in thailand. inspired me so much i went there for 2 months this winter, ended up dws everywhere, progressed 2 # grades and am returning this dec. to help staff a climbing resort while i climb my heart out in between! that 7 min clip on youtube had a major impact on me.

  6. what kinda climbn ya wanna do? alpine adventure? craggin? sports clippn? plenty of zones... go to the wa climbers [wcc] website to get general info on this states climbing....

  7. second that! most folks spraying about it havent even been on it. once you finish the approach and look up from the first pitch, youll understand both why its there and why its bolted. unless your too hard headed to appriciate long bolted routes. ya it was unfortunate the map used showed a earlier wilderness boundry. in fact i dont beleive they had the new boundries printed when it was put into motion! years have passed, the nfs has let it go, and so should everyone else. it exists now- its pretty fun and unique- im sure folks arn't going to go out of their way to put up similar routes in the wilderness again, knowingly or not. climb it or dont.

  8. hey once again... none of the bolts are chopped. stop being paranoid. i would be one of the first to know. its just old spray man. when are you coming up? the mtn gets some weird random weather including late snow... if so look up condorphamine addiction in leavenworth. 7 pitch 10b, all bolts, climbs 500' on the condor buttress. then at wa pass on south early winter spire theres a all bolt 11c called cascadia/cacadian? alpine bolt clippn is fun. the same goes for gear routes that are up high. do it all and be a well rounded climber.

  9. the bolts are there man. go climb it. get route beta, not gear beta... i say that only because there are a coupla pitches that could leave ya guessin. the route is fun, unique and has gorgeous views. fuck the politics and just go have fun on a great rt.

  10. Exactly!!! In the spring and summer months I often hike miles off trails, in many places in wa.... I have come across too curious black bears and have been tracked by cougars for hours, many times. This why I carry when I'm solo bushwakin! It is a great IDEa for anybody of the bushwakin adventurous nature! Turning around in the snow to follow your own tracks back out, only to find cat tracks next to yours the whole way back, with a pile of steaming poop is fuckin freaky dude! Why not protect yourself? Duhhh.

  11. Hmmm enough of the cougar argument, really.

     

    I'll probably show up there this summer hoping to get anew rout or two in. And who cares.

     

    Now for my favorite routes...

    - "fuck yeah" 7b chong plee thailand

    - "britishly white" 7a tonsai bay Thailand

    - "say whaat dihedral" 6c chong plee Thailand

    - "orgasmatron" 7a ww2 little si

    - "danas arch" 6c upper wall index

    - "tropicana, I remember drooling" 6a+ 6a Amazonia exit38

    - "son of Jesus" 6a+ ww1 little si

    - and the 2nd pitch "vudu guru" 6c+ ww1 little si

    - Ok now what I think to be one of th best routes of all time...

    "best route in Minnesota" by mr. T skinner, 6c, prah nang beach Thailand. Hands down. If you've ever been on it then you just might agree.

  12. It's everywhere y'all.... Last year iwas belaying my friend on pumpline-careno crag in l-w when a fist sized rock smacked me in the forehead.

     

    Just remember to bring beer and ciggs so you have something to mellow out with after being attacked by stone. It's super cool to have a fucked up face when the ladies ask what happened and you tell them about how you climb mountains. Because your a man. Argg. Right? That's why I climb anyway- for the cougars. They dig it. Ladies: Due to a high volume of pm's from other beautiful women, I won't be able respond to new messages until next Wednesday.

  13. Hey we have an amazing forecast for this week so im

    looking for people to climb with at little si...

     

    this is as good as it will ever get for feb...

     

    I'm up for getting on any route, and i am especially hyped to get on vudu guru & technorigine... Abo is a tasty route as well.

     

    alright lemme know- talk to ya soon!

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