kmehrtens

I think I am going to trade Mt Whitney for the Presidential Range, NH in the winter (Jan/Feb 2015).

I am looking for ideas for my next guided climb this summer. Criteria: 1. It needs to be with a guide service (per my wife) 2. Must be in the United States (per My wife) 3. Would like in the PNW 4. Have already climbed Mt Rainier & Mt Hood 5. Alpine Mountaineering Style on glacier/snow 6. Would be nice if it would help in my ultimate goal of Denali in 2017 Got any ideas? I was thinking, Mt Adams or Mt Baker... Thanks

Thanks for all of the good advice. It also seems that the consensus about ditching Whitney and substitute with Shasta sounds like a good plan. The only real reason I originally picked it was for the higher altitude. I am also just trying to get as much climbing experience under my belt so I am less of a liability. I really don’t want to be the guy at the back of the line holding up the group. The other reason for the list is to give me an excuse to get out every year to do a little climbing. If you all have a better list, I would be all ears, but it must come with a professional guide. So says my wife and I would kind-of like to keep this one. I’m already on my second one & she supports & encourages my climbing/mountaineering habit. It’s nice to have two incomes to fund a sort-of expensive hobby. It also sounds like I need to spend my winters outside for a week or so backpacking & pulling a sled. When I say “Midwest” I mean St. Louis, MO where the elevation is only 500’. We don’t really have a lot of hills with real elevation gain in Missouri. Thanks again for the advice. Keep it coming if anyone else has anything else to add. Any comments regarding a Denali guide service?

Thanks for all of the good advice. I completely forgot about the Presidential Range. Talk about shitty weather in the winter. It also seems that the consensus about ditching Whitney and substitute with Shasta sounds like a good plan. The only real reason I originally picked it was for the higher altitude. I also thought about moving the schedule up a year or so, but I didn’t want to rush into it & not have the best chances of making to the top because of inexperience. I would love to combine both the Denali Prep & Denali in the same year. That sounds like the most sense, but I’m not sure I about taking a week off in the spring & 4 weeks off in June. That seems a little aggressive. Plus I may need a little recover time? The comment about trading in my wife, that’s not an option. I’m already on my second one & she supports & encourages my climbing/mountaineering habit. It’s nice to have two incomes to fund a sort-of expensive hobby. I would kind-of like to keep this one. Thanks again for the advice. Keep it coming if anyone else has anything else to add. Any comments or advice regarding a Denali guide service?

I am looking to the future with attempting Denali in mind. I got into mountaineering a few years ago after rock climbing for 20 years or so off & on. I have climbed Mt Rainier via the DC Route (2011) and recently completed Mt Hood (2012) via the Hogsback Route on the Southside. Both of these trips were with a guide service. I am trying to plot out my next climbs with the culmination being Denali. All of the future trips will need to be with a guide service, per my wife & I's mountaineering/climbing "agreement". Plus living in the midwest, there is not a whole lot of seriously interested folks in mountain climbing. Or at least in the circles I frequent, and I have a "normal" Monday - Friday day-time job, but with the vacation time to support a couple of climbing trips a year. So just knowing that I have a "built-in" climbing partner as a guide with more mountaineering skills than me is nice (but always wanting to learn more to make myself better equipped & less of a liability). This is my list: 2011 - Mt Rainier; DC Route (complete) 2012 - Mt Hood; Hogsback/Old Chute Route (complete) 2013 - Mt Adams; South Lunch Counter Route (& maybe Mt St Helens if time allows) 2014 - Mt Baker; Easton Glacier 2015 - Mt Whitney; Mountaineer's Route 2016 - Denali Prep on Mt Rainier (in March or April) 2017 - Denali; West Buttress Does anyone have any other suggestions for prep climbs or any other advice? Suggestions for Denali Guides? AMS, IMG, AAI, etc... Oh, also part of the wife's climbing "agreement", all climbing must be done in the US. I have posted this in both the "Newbies" & "Alaska Route Reports" forums.

I am looking to the future with attempting Denali in mind. I got into mountaineering a few years ago after rock climbing for 20 years or so off & on. I have climbed Mt Rainier via the DC Route (2011) and recently completed Mt Hood (2012) via the Hogsback Route on the Southside. Both of these trips were with a guide service. I am trying to plot out my next climbs with the culmination being Denali. All of the future trips will need to be with a guide service, per my wife & I's mountaineering/climbing "agreement". Plus living in the midwest, there is not a whole lot of seriously interested folks in mountain climbing. Or at least in the circles I frequent, and I have a "normal" Monday - Friday day-time job, but with the vacation time to support a couple of climbing trips a year. So just knowing that I have a "built-in" climbing partner as a guide with more mountaineering skills than me is nice (but always wanting to learn more to make myself better equipped & less of a liability). This is my list: 2011 - Mt Rainier; DC Route (complete) 2012 - Mt Hood; Hogsback/Old Chute Route (complete) 2013 - Mt Adams; South Lunch Counter Route (& maybe Mt St Helens if time allows) 2014 - Mt Baker; Easton Glacier 2015 - Mt Whitney; Mountaineer's Route 2016 - Denali Prep on Mt Rainier (in March or April) 2017 - Denali; West Buttress Does anyone have any other suggestions for prep climbs or any other advice? Suggestions for Denali Guides? AMS, IMG, AAI, etc... Oh, also part of the wife's climbing "agreement", all climbing must be done in the US. I have posted this in both the "Newbies" & "Alaska Route Reports" forums.

I have been looking at the Black Diamond Venom tools in a 50cm length. That seems to be the "right" length for a 2nd tool. Is the only reason to change from the Black Diamond to the Petzl only weight? When you say comfort level, what do you mean?

I have recently returned from climbing Mt Hood in June (7th). It seemed that the last part of the Old Chute route before the summit ridge we could have used a second ice axe or tool in addition to our normal 60cm ice axes. Does anyone have an opinion on this? (Foolish question) What would make a good second tool for future climbs?

Now that I have completed my climb up Mt. Rainier successfully this past July, I am looking to Mt Hood. What is the best time of the year to attempt Hood with the best chance of success/weather? Any input on Timberline Mountain Guides?

Now, that I have completed my climb up Mt. Rainier successfully this past July, I am looking to Mt Hood. What is the best time of the year to attempt Hood with the best chance of success/weather? Any input on Timberline Mountain Guides?

I would recommend IMG all the way. I did the DC Route with IMG this past July and had a GREAT experience with them. The service and the attention to each of the groups personal needs or concerens were excellent. The food was awesome too. I carried a Aether 85 and it was not completley full. Don't worry, the first day they will help you go through your gear and pair it down. So bring more than you think and you leave 1/2 of it behind for the trek up the hill.

I love my Windstopper fleece jackets. They are nice because they actually do cut the wind, unlike normal fleece jackets. Plus they tend to be lighter weight both physically and thickness. I have found that they don't need to be as thick as others to equal the same amount of warmth.

So the Rainier trip is coming up at the end of the month & I am looking for some advice on trail food. What is everyone's favorite trail food during the hike up Rainier?

Thanks for the opinions. It sounds like the capilene is the way to go. And maybe a 1 or 2 weight. Now I just need to find them on sale somewhere. I still interested to hear other opinions. Thanks.

I am sure that this topic has already been debated, but I can't seem to find it. I am going to Rainier this summer and need to decide between the two for a base layer for both uppers & bottoms. I like the idea of wool, since it still warms when wet and does stink as quick. But I like the synthetic material because it dries quickly. What is everyone's opinion? The next question is what weight. Capilene 1, 2 or 3? Smartwool Micro, Lightweight, Midweight? Thanks

It's funny that you mention Rudy Project sunglasses. I currently own a pair of Rudy Project Graal Foyl sunglasses that I have had the Eye Dr. make actual Rx polarized lenses for and love them. I originally bought them for fishing since they sat close to my face and would cut the glare down. I have thought about just getting a new pair of lenses made with a darker tint and still polarized for Rainier, but not quite sure.

I am planning to climb Mt. Rainier this coming July and am looking for some opinions on glacier glasses & sunglasses. I will need to have them made into Rx glasses and do NOT want goggles. What is everyones opinion of good coverage sunglasses? I have looked at and like the Julbo Explorers and Nomads. I looked at Julbo's Dolgin and Bivouak and they seem too wide and are too open along the sides for my face.

I am still shopping for mountaineering boots for my Rainer trip next year. I think I have narrowed my search down to double plastic boots. Living in the flat lands of the midwest there are not a whole lot of shops that carry mountaineering boots so I am forced to buy them on-line. So my "simple" question is, how should a double plastic mountaineering boot fit? Does anyone have a favorite wool/mountaineering sock that they like too? I currently wear a US mens size 8 (Eur 41 1/3) in the two pair or Asolo boots I own now (FSN95GTX & 520GV). Thanks Again.

Chris is correct. All of the guide services require plastic. Which I don't really mind, except from the weight standpoint. I looked at a few other full leather boots, but I come back to the double plastic, since the guide services know more than me.

I'm not sure if this is the right forum, but it does relate to Rainier. I am planning a trip to climb Rainier next July-August with a guide and looking for a recommendation for plastic mountaineering boots. I am looking at the Asolo AFS 8000 (now on sale @ REI), Asolo AFS Evoluzione and the Scarpa Inverno. I would like to say that money is not a factoring issue. If I am going to go, I want to be warm & comfortable during the trip. I have done enough backpacking to know not to go cheap when it comes to your feet. Any suggestions / opinions? Thanks

I am planning a trip to climb Rainier next July-August with a guide and looking for a recommendation for plastic mountaineering boots. I am looking at the Asolo AFS 8000 (now on sale @ REI), Asolo AFS Evoluzione and the Scarpa Inverno. I would like to say that money is not a factoring issue. If I am going to go, I want to be warm & comfortable during the trip. I have done enough backpacking to know not to go cheap when it comes to your feet. Any suggestions / opinions? Thanks

Is there a better plan for staying somewhere the night before the first day with the group? Am I missing something?

Wow, there is a lot of good advice flowing around here. I will need more time to read through all of it. I am looking to climber Rainier in 2011, it sounds like late July to EARLY August is best. I am looking to go with a guided service like RMI, IMG or AAI. I like AAI or IMG currently just from the fact that they spend a full day at 11,000 feet to help with acclimatization. I don't think I will have the time nor vacation to allow climbing Mt. Adams too. Living in the Midwest time my time will be limited, so I am hoping that my physical training/conditioning will push me to the top. I am going to try to spend the night before I meet up with the guide service near Paradise so I will not be coming straight from the Seattle area. My wife and I are going to try to spend a little time before the climb in Seattle as a mini vacation before Rainier. In the past I have not had problems going from sea level to 9,000 feet. We made the drive from sea level to the visitor station on Mauna Kea (9,000feet) in Hawaii in 2 hours this past fall and I had no high altitude effects, unlike my wife who did. So we did not make the summit. Keep the advice coming, this is great and a load of help to a newbie who loves information.

So it seems that Late July - Early August might be the better time. Does anyone have any other advice for me? Gear, training, etc. I'm looking at double plastic boots and backpacks currently.

I am looking to climb Rainier next year (2011) with a guide service. Living in the mid-west, I am looking for some advice on the best time of year to go for the best chance of success. This will be my first venture into ice/glacier climbing, I do have experience in rock climbing, but this is something I have always wanted to do and my Wife said go for it, as long as you use a guide service. Any advice any one can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance.