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g orton

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    [TR] N. Umpqua River - Dilley's Delight on Old Man

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    Shapp,

    Great trip report. I'll make the corrections to the topo for pitch-1 as suggested in the next update. The original 2000 guide topo had pitch-1 drawn similar to what you have in red.

     

    The traverse at the bolt from the hand crack into the gully is not as bad as it looks. You're right it's freaky but the rock is coarse enough that your right hand and feet are more positive than you think they are when you're reaching accross to make that move. By the way Tyler Adams replaced that bolt recently, so it is solid.

     

    The rappel off into the notch, as you noted, is always windy as the notch forms a wind tunnel effect.

     

    Enjoyed your discriptions!

    Peregrine closures ending

    in Access Issues

    Posted

    Peregrine at higher elevations are fledging early this year.

    The Umpqua Nat'l Forest is lifting its Peregrine closures after Sunday June 27 on the Umpqua.

    This includes Acker Rock, Eagle Rock, Limpy Rocks.

     

    Honeycombs and The Zen Spot are lower elevation and should be OK to climb this weekend.

    Old Man & Old Woman, Umpqua

    in Access Issues

    Posted · Edited by g orton

    The trail starts from Highway 395 at milepost-50 from the NW side of the bridge that crosses the NU River. If you've come to Eagle Rock Campground you've gone too far and will need to double back to the last bridge you crossed.

    The hike along the NU River is fairly level and make for a nice warmup before climbing the trail from Eagle Creek to the base of Old Man Rock.

    oldman_BW_475px.jpg

    Old Man & Old Woman, Umpqua

    in Access Issues

    Posted

    Access from Soda Springs Dam to Old Man Rock on the Umpqua will be closed until 2012 while the power company constructs a fish ladder. Until then access will be from the west along the North Umpqua Trail located at the northwest side of the bridge that crosses the North Umpqua between Dry Creek Store and Eagle Rock Campground. When walking in if you find yourself at the Boulder Creek footbridge you've gone one creek too far. Backtrack to the next creek back (Eagle Creek). You will find the foot trail to Old Man up the left side of Eagle Creek.

    name that route!

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    ___________________________________________________________________

     

    Greg, when is this rap-a-thon?

    _________________________________________________________________

     

     

    Bill!

    We're looking at July 15th. So far "we" is the Forest Biologist and myself. Would love to have you come!

     

    greg

    name that route!

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    is that rare plant species going to affect access? not that I have ever climed there

     

    Excellent question!

    The short answer is, no.

    This is one of the few cases where the Forest Service's approach has been extremely objective. The plant is easily avoided when climbing. The Forest has chosen to work closely with the climbing community to help protect the plant.

     

    name that route!

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted · Edited by g orton

    Woah I guess that would be Acker? I have never seen it from that angle before though, it looks huge!

     

    ==============================================================

    Tyler,

    Yes, this photo is of the upper southwest side. The wall is about 600 to 700 feet with another 200 to 300 ft cliff below that (not shown and vertually unexplored). So far Eagle's Dare (about 700ft) is the only route on this side of Acker. Obviously there is a little room for more routes.

     

    Once rapairs are made on the lookout it will again be available for overnight rental (possibly this summer). The most popular route and possibly Oregon's longest (about 1,100 ft long)is the Peregrine Traverse (5.6, not shown). Peregrine and Bald Eagle sightings are common while climbing here.

     

    Last year we were able to varify a species of Buckwheat that only grows on Acker Rock. We are hoping to organize a monitoring day this July 15 in which we will be making random rappels to count the location and distribution of this plant. Anyone who's rappelled down to the base of Eagle's Dare, with the valley floor 2,000 feet below, can tell you what an awsome face this is to be on. Please, anyone who loves exposure and can place bolts on rappel, please contact me at gorton@q.com. We'll be supplying the bolts, hangers, and food. If enough people attend maybe we'll make it an annual Spring Rappel Fest.

    greg

    4 Season Tent

    in Newbies

    Posted

     

    The extra weight of the "four-season" double wall versions make those tents more wind tolerant, however by properly locating and protecting a double-wall three-season model, this type of tent may be comfortably used in all but the most extreme conditions, when even a "four-season" or "expedition" model would be at risk.

     

    I second this response. I defintely recommend a self suporting double walled 4-season dome. In high winds, just build a snow wall around it. You'll have the next best thing to an igloo in less time. If you are interested in snow camping get the best you can find. As your experience grows so will your need to winter some harsh conditions. Treat it as a long-term investment. I've gotten thirty years out of my first North Face VE24 which means the original investment cost me about $10 a year. Companies like NorthFace are excellent at standing behind their products and making repairs when you send your tents into them. Even though Northface finally told me to quite sending them the tent 20 years ago because it was worn out, it is still the tent I use most often because I don't care as much if it gets stolen.

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