WilliamMc

Touche'. It was a matter of opportunity. I knew the conditions were going to suck, but after moving from Colorado to Oklahoma three years ago, I get near mountains and their gravity sucks me in. I was in Portland on a two day interim stop, so I decided to get up there. I wanted to make it over to the Cooper Spur to climb in dry hiking conditions, but when the White River glacier prevented me from doing that with an approach from Timberline, I knew that I'd only be making it up to the Hogsback at that point. I loved it though. It was a great trip and the first opportunity I get in winter conditions, I'm going back! ~William

Just climbed to the bergschrund on the 26th. Conditions made the climb tough. You can make the summit, and I would have tried if I had brought my crampons. Rocks are steadily falling after 9:30am. Be careful. The route I took (marked in red on Reinhart's photograph) was the standard South Route to the Hogsback from Timberline Lodge. I hiked up some of the gullys that have a few jumps groomed by the snowcats for boarders and skiers. Ended up on the West side of the White River Glacier and hiked uphill to join the Palmer about halfway up. White River is highly crevassed and a thin snowbridge prevented me from hiking it all the way (no crampons). Crossed Palmer to climb on its West side, passed right side of Crater rock (much lower than in winter conditions), didn't even make it to the Devil's Kitchen. I had to scramble around the base of Crater rock to gain the Hogsback on the west side. Being solo, I didn't want to climb the Hogsback from the east because of the crevasses. Once on the snow again, I stayed on the ridge up to the bergschrund. Two crevasses were evident across the ridge, but I stepped carefully and with a little luck, made it across. Snow at 9:30 am was hardpack on the east side and just barely soft enough on the west to toe in with boots. Bergschrund right now is about 30' tall and 20' of a gap. If you dare to tempt the crevasses to the west, you could probably make the summit by staying right along the rocks and kicking in to the thin snow/verglass which should kick you out far to the climbers left of the Pearly Gates, then steep terrain to the summit (suggested route in blue). I turned around at the bergschrund and glissaded down the west side of the hogsback, walked back to the base of crater rock, and back down the Palmer glacier. Due to the lack of snow everywhere, the route is a little more difficult than I imagine winter conditions would be. So much volcanic ash and glacier-powder (crushed rock) that on steep sections, I likened my experience to climbing in baby powder. In all, a great time on a beautiful day, but wait for the snow!