LaughingSquirrel

Hey Mark! Yeah the beauty here is worth the visit. About an hour north of here is the leaping tiger gorge. Its over 3,000 meters deep. Flanked on either side with walls of limestone that put yosemite to shame. Its just a matter of mustering up enough courage to get up it Limestone and trad are kind of oxymorons. The living conditions here are actually very good. As a company there are 6 of us living in an apartment that we have rented for the company. Still have lots of room to accommodate other staff! The family that owns the building lives right next door. They are a Naxi family. Really nice couple with two kids. Its amazing to witness their culture and language. I don't speak much naxi but to say hello you say Ah law law lay. Amazing! For money we are opening a bar called the "yeti" and it should be opening within the month. But for the most part right now we are depending on our investors until we get up and running. Its going to be the best bar in Shuhe. Shuhe is were we live, kind of like the wild west of america meets tibet in architecture. The town is nestled at the base of the yulong snow mountain (elevation 18,300) and its quite an attraction in china. So I just talk to Austin and we don't see any reason why you and your wife shouldn't come out here for a month or two. Give you a place to live and food to eat For climbing gear we have been sponsored by a few companies and we can order really anything we want. Let me know what you think man! Cheers, Mike Dobie PS. Could you ask craig what he thinks about coming out here as well?

And here are a few more. The first is a crag that has 7 routes on it already. mostly 5.11 to 5.12. The second is one of the valleys in Liming. Where it will all go trad. Can you believe that No one has climbed here yet?? On the frontier brotha!

Hey Mark, here are a few picture from the Dongba Valley project that we are working on. Nothing like sport climbing at 11,000 ft. Ha!! Hope you well man! Lots going on over here.

Hello, we are looking for someone to come out to Lijiang, China to help develop the rock climbing scene. Lijiang is a small city in the province of Yunnan, China. Located 200 miles south of the tibet border, this area is very popular for its snow mountains, the worlds deepest gorges, and a rich minority culture of Tibetan and Naxi. In a nutshell this area has potential to be another international climbing destination. We have access to an area that could see more than 250 limestone sport routes. Enough to rival the climbing in Yangshuo and Thailand. We also have access to another area that is traditional climbing, sandstone rock, and reminiscent of Indian Creek, but the walls are close to 300 meters. STOUT crack climbing. This area is very large as well and has seen zero ascents. If you want to come out and help in the development in these areas as well as some other alpine opportunities on the local mountains (keep in mind this area is the foothills to the Himalayas, most peaks are 18,000 and up), please contact me via email at mdobie012@yahoo.com. We can provide a room, food, local transportation, help with visa, and an experience of a lifetime! Requirements: -Have set up at least 10 rock routes or 1-2 years experience in sport/trad crag development -Competent 5.10 trad and sport leader -Alpine experience preferred Sincerely, Mike Dobie Head Guide/Development Coordinator Highland Explorations

Were those vertical systems complete? Yeah I know beckey describes it as "evil" but I look at that north face of baring and think if that eventually went, there has to be a way for it to go. Lots of aid and iron for sure.

Does anyone have any beta on routes up the steep east face of three finger?

A few end runs on the glacier. Had to whip out the tools to get on the ridge, 5 foot step to descend, wasn't anything bad with two well placed tools.

Trip: El dorado - North ridge Date: 8/22/2009 Trip Report: My buddy and I found a little beta from a site on the internet for this route and decided to do it. I consisted of 3 pitches of rock followed by a pitch of 65 degree ice to gain the summit. From high camp at the base of the east ridge route of el dorado traverse north and west around the northeast face to gain the north ridge. One can get on it at a col or higher up on the ridge. It seemed that lower might give a little more in terms of rock. Once on the ridge ascend. Staying left of the ridge is path of least resistance. Class 3-4 mostly. Stay closer to the crest made the route for 5th. I'd say the hardest part that we pitched was 5.5, while other sources wanted to call it 5.6-7ish. You be the judge. (The germans would call it class 2...not really...but if you've climbed with us you would understand). simul climbed the rest of the ridge to the base of the north wall of ice below the summit. This is the frosting on the cake. Placed three screws on it as a precaution. Descend the east ridge and enjoy looking at THE traverse across the valley. Overall the best way to describe this climb as just frickin fun. Peace out yo. Gear Notes: Small rack to 4, one of each (could go lighter), rack of stoppers, one or two ice tools, crampons, 4-5 ice screws, glacier travel gear, 1-2 pickets to top belay ice pitch. Approach Notes: El dorado wilderness trail. Park 19.3 miles past marblemount. Cross large logs over the creek to get to the trailhead (there is a sign there) Stay on well beaten path. once at the boulder field follow ciarns and stay to the right. gain the meadows (bivy sites) and follow trails to the ridge on the left. (note: resist the urge to get higher on the ridge.) once on the ridge descend into the next drainage. head up on right side of glacier through the alp slopes. Keep heading in that direction, cross flat part of glacier, enjoy the view and reach another bivy site at the base of the east ridge of el dorado.

Thank you all so much for the beta, it is much appreciated.I will post what the military says about venturing on their land after I talk to them. Peace out yo, Dobie