Question from a relatively new climber from back east where we don't have glaciers:
Basically, when do you rope up?
Or more precisely, when do you sometimes NOT rope up? What mountains, what grade glacier, time of year, weather conditions, etc. do you just not bother. Obviously everyone's level of risk acceptance is different, just wondering what the variance is and what to evaluate when stepping onto a glacier. I took a crevasse rescue class this spring and the "company line" was basically any and all glaciers at all times, but I think that seems over conservative. The Palmer Glacier on Hood (underneath the ski area!) seems an obvious exception to that rule but I'm new to glacier travel so who knows. I also don't do any ski mountaineering (yet) but it seems like they are always unroped ripping turns on the way down. What are they seeing that gives them that confidence?