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Dhamma

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Posts posted by Dhamma

    Cold Weather High Altitude Sleeping Question

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Question:

     

    What do you usually wear when sleeping in a sleeping bag in cold temperatures at altitude?

     

    Bivyd in a lightening/rain storm at 10,300ft, I wore capilene 3 longsleeve shirt and pants and a north face denali jacket and i completely soaked my 15 degree down bag in sweat-rendering it soggy and heat-sucking.

     

    It was probably below freezing with the windchill outside

    Mt Shasta Self-Rescue Question from trip this Week

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by Dhamma

    A few thoughts:

     

    - His history of AMS in the past means he is susceptible to the problem and likely but not guaranteed to get it on other trips to high altitude. He would be a person, as CBS suggests, that would benefit from using acetazolamide (diamox) on future trips for prevention and he should definitely have it along for treatment.

     

    - With his history of AMS, ascending to the summit of Shasta in only two days is likely too fast and another night or two at lower elevation would be of benefit

     

    - Being hydrated doesn't prevent AMS. All it does is prevent dehydration which is easy to develop at high altitude and feels and looks a lot like AMS

     

    - Avoiding overexertion is thought to be important in preventing altitude illness. Going slow and steady as you did helps... 60 pounds for that trip sounds like a lot of gear, however.

     

    - Continuing to move higher when he had a headache on the first day was probably not the best idea. Would have been best to stay put if the terrain allowed it, treat and acclimatize there

     

    - Getting him down rather than going higher on Day 2 was a good idea but I probably would not have sent him down alone. Had he been showing signs of HACE, rather than just AMS, he could get into some real difficulty

     

    - In regard to whoiswillhockett's comment: diamox does not "hide" the symptoms of AMS. It actually helps the body acclimatize to high altitude so if you're feeling good on the medication, your body is doing well.

     

    I think we did bring too much gear, and we were talking about ways to reduce weight on the drive home. I told him about diamox, and I told him to go to the doc before we went out again together. I think you guys are right, and I feel the same way, I think we should have descended when he couldn't climb and more, and camped at lower elevation, and then re-evaluated in the morning. Thanks for the advice.

     

    me looking like a skeleton after doing all this shit at night

    2466d368.jpg

     

    Mt Shasta Self-Rescue Question from trip this Week

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    If this included both of you descending at that point, then yes that was a good plan.

     

    Yes, that's what I meant.

     

    Not sure sending him down alone while you packed up camp was a good idea.

     

    I didn't want to separate, but he was on the verge of panic and I was worried he'd do something stupid like wander off if I didn't start him going.

    Mt Shasta Self-Rescue Question from trip this Week

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by Dhamma

    I had to self-rescue my buddy from Shasta today. Thankfully I was successful in getting him and his gear down the mountain without requiring any rescue assistance. Being new to the sport/hobby/diversion I have a few questions on the decisions I made, and am asking for some feedback and constructive criticism from the experts.

     

    We were planning a 2 day Ascent up avalanche gulch to the summit after camping in the parking lot at Bunny Flat (With a high camp at Helen lake), but barely made it to Helen lake today-and wouldn't have even gotten that far if I hadn't taken on more then my share of the work.

     

    My partner had been fighting a mild headache all the way up to 9500 feet (right before Helen Lake) when he started sitting down and saying he couldn't go on. He was complaining of knee pain, and I assumed it was some kind of strain instead of AMS (which he was reporting mild symptoms of earlier) so I encouraged him to suck it up till we got to camp. After trying to get him going about 3 times, I climbed up to camp, dropped my 60lb pack, grabbed my Ice axe, glissaded down to him, shouldered his 60 lb pack up to the top so he could try to climb with no pack- which he did-- very slowly.

     

    We didn't get to camp till almost dark and I had to do everything myself- pitch the tent, go find snow to boil for water, and make food. I had him go inside the tent and get warm in his sleeping bag. Mind you, I was tired after the climb, so doing all this was pretty draining.

     

    I sat up alone on a rock after dark boiling snow so we could both stay hydrated, made him food, and got him in his bag. We were the last team into camp and our alpine start (which he decided to pass on) was supposed to be at 2 or 3am. I boiled 10 liters and then went to bed.

     

    We both stayed wide awake the entire night. Winds kicked up on the exposed camp-- blowing 40mph consistently with gusts up to 60. Windchill outside was probably around zero. He was still not doing too well. I have never seen weather like this in my life it was truly awe inspiring and quite fearsome. When the sun eventually came up I awoke to him rolling on the ground, clutching his head, saying he couldn't' take it anymore, and begging me to help him. I raced him up and dressed, and sent him on his way down with a super light pack--leaving a TON of shit at camp that I had to pack up first. After packing the heaviest load I've ever carried in the Bora, we eventually made our way down and he started feeling better.

     

    Facts:

    He had summitted before, I have not.

    He has suffered severe AMS before, I have not.

    We were both SUPER hydrated

    We were both munching gu/sport beans/etc

    We were taking a slow and steady pace

    We were layering appropriately

    We both live at sea level

     

    I know the best cure for AMS is descending, but my rationale was, if i could get him up to camp and put some fluids in him and let him get warm and sleep, he might acclimatize and feel better. I know a conflicting school of thought is to descend when symptoms start and bivy at lower altitude.

     

    I'm wondering if I shouldn't have carried his pack for him the final several hundred feet up to camp, and instead made him turn around under his own power to lower altitude.

     

    Interested in hearing opinions. Thanks.

     

    FYI, this has nothing to do with my other post on PLB's. I would clearly not think of activating one on a non-seriously life-threatening situation such as this.

    props to BD

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    these guys are outstanding. i snapped the tip of my trailshock pole and the guy in the warranty department mailed me out a new replacement piece for free. Because of how i was taken care of I am willing to throw down $$$$ on one of their bibler tents. if only other companies took a page from their book!

    8mm rope belay

    in Newbies

    Posted

    The rope you are using is not a static line right? In the photo, it looks alot like a static perlon from the spool.
    I think the rope looks like an "Edelweiss Discover 8mm x 30m Super Dry Twin Rope"

     

    Correct! Edelweiss Discover 8mm x 30m Super Dry Twin Rope. We're using it as a single for glacier travel and to climb moderate snow slopes (Gannett Peak in WY).

     

    this is the exact rope i just bought.

    Roping up for Glacier Travel

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I guess it was my misinterpretation. The guy way sayingthat a 70m rope was too long for two guys, and you should cut it in half by coiling it up on each guy. I took it to mean you need a shorter rope and I thought, well shit, why dont' i just get a smaller rope. REI had a 8mm dry rope 30 meter that said alpine on it, i thought it sounded like the ticket. I'm still not through freedom of the hills yet--need to keep reading. thanks for the advice!

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